blind_elk

I've upgrade the fronts on my 32 GTS4 to GT-R fronts, without any noticeable effect on brake bias. Given that the majority of the braking is done at the front, doing a bit more at the front shouldn't be a problem.

Frankly, I wouldn't trust Volvo to get it too right. I recall reading about their press release of a model feature auto emergency braking. One of the journos thought he would try it out; the car crashed into the car it was following!!!!! But really, all this gadgetry is, I believe, half the problem now. Drivers are now believing themselves to be indestructable now that the car drives itself, brakes for itself, brakes don't lock, can't lose control in a swerve, etc. Really, the only truly safe car is one with an attentive, skilled driver behind the wheel.

Duncan, RB20DET doesn't use a resistor pack. Sinista, only the coils utilise a PTU. RB20DET ECU grounds injectors through pins 101 (1), 105 (2), 103 (3), 112 (4), 110 (5), 114 (6). Pins 107 / 108 connect the injectors through the ECU internals to earth.

Don't you need to live in the state where your car is registered? Anyway, why don't you look into NSW Historic Vehicle Scheme? By my reading, its even cheaper than Tas's system.

I'm guessing that if you did away with the FPR, you would have next to no fuel pressure at the injectors. But it begs the question - why do you think you need to drop the fuel pressure? What pressure do you have now? And what do you think it is doing to the overall running of the engine?

Was it done on a dyno? Or this mob figured "this should work"? Tunes ain't tunes. Get it onto a dyno if you are going to play around with non-standard setups.

I have RB20 one - loaner only. PM me

Brake lights are much brighter than tail lights (something like 21W v 5W), so any competent driver following would be able to tell whether or not you were braking. For people not focusing on the road, it really won't matter how many brake lights you have. That said, what I did with my 32 (doesn't have that stupid eye-level light) is to clip the tail light wire to the inner 2 tail lights, so now I have 2 tail lights and 4 brake lights (I stole the idea from the 240K setup, having seperate tail / brake lights). Much simpler, just as effective.

If it only does it while the engine is cold, then I wouldn't worry about. You really shouldn't be using "power" on a cold engine.

No, it PRODUCES (up to) 90A, then feeds it back into the battery. That amperage does not go through the fusible links, there is no risk that the alternator can blow the links or other fuses. FWIW, in the "olden days", my 180B SSS ran a quite small alternator - about 45A. Because it used 100W Cibie driving lamps in "rally car" trim, the alternator was upgraded to about 80A, with no other modification to the electrics, and no problems with fuses blowing. Such an upgrade was quite commoin in rally cars of the day (70s, 80s).

Please don't do that. It wastes fuel and causes damage to the engine (most engine wear occurs during warm up). Also makes the car vulnerable to theft, as one Porsche owner in Canberra can attest! Back to your problem - get the injectors cleaned, new spark plugs, change oil / filter.

Before you go throwing money at the "problem", tell us: What size wheels are you running (diameter, width, offset). Tyres (width, profile)? How much camber? caster? In my experience, the only problem I have with scraping is high speed cornering left on uneven surfaces. And the culprit is most likely the wheel rubbing on the arch liner when the suspension goes into bump / compression (lh arch liner has gone bye-byes, so I don't have the problem on right turns). FYI - the setup on my 89 GTS4 is 17x 8" rims (not sure of offset), about 1 deg -ve camber, unknown (probably stock) castor. One other thing you might look for is the wear marker on the brake pads rubbing on the rotor (although that would be a chronic "all the time" scraping). And in my experience, GT-R / GTS4 suspension components are generally interchangeable.

Sometimes the fuse will appear intact but may have a hairline break. You need to double-check the fuses with a multi-meter.

Code 55 is "all clear". It may well continue to flash the error code because the ECU "remembers" errors for something like 50 starts. You need to reset the ECU if you want to know if a problem has been solved. As stated in numerous threads, GT-Rs in particular are notoriously sensitive to voltage / amperage. Even though a battery may be healthy enough to start the engine, it can sometimes take large amperages to recharge after starting. The ECU sees these high amperages as a problem, and the engine may run like crap. Try a new battery.

I stated in your other thread that Wolf uses pins 1 / 3 for the air temp sensor. That is for the stand alone unit with custom loom. In the factory ECU - and hence the Wolf PnP - pins 1 / 3 are used to fire spark on #1 / #3. I don't know which (spare) pins Wolf is using for the air temp sensor in the PnP unit - you will have to ask them. The engine will still run without an air temp sensor - actually you can turn it on / off on the handset. From memory, mine has next to no adjustment for air temperature, and still seems to run fine (I'm running v4+ on a RB25DET).

On the Wolf v3.0 ECU, the air temp sensor connects to 1 (ground) and 3. (pretty certain they didn't change it in v4, just can't find my v4 manual right now)

There appears to be a kink in the hose from the exhaust rocker cover vent down to the turbo. Maybe take care of that before you try anything else.

I thought 15BTDC was the "factory" timing figure? So, what's the problem? If you have adjustable cam gears, then any deviation from 0 offset is going to change where the CAS sits at the correct timing. So, what's the problem?

The diaphragm in your wastegate actuator might be damaged. If you still have the old turbo, maybe you could swap actuators and see if you still have the same problem.

Don't recall exacty which model, might not have even been R32 / Recaro. But it's probably more important that the rails suit the R32, not necessarily the Recaro (Recaros are pretty much all the same in terms of how they mount) - it's going to be easier to drill a couple of new holes to suit the Recaro than to re-jig the rails to suit the R32.

From my experience, I would strongly recommend rebuilding the 25 and slotting it into the 32. The 25 has "torque to burn", cubic inches still count, and it should be a lot easier to get your hp target out of the bigger engine. But you will need to factor in a new ECU - you might be able to Nistune a RB20 ECU, but it is probably a better option to get a dedicated aftermarket ECU. (Although you will probably need to do this no matter which route you take)

Pretty sure it's not misfiring. That sounds more like it has a lumpy cam. Could also just be the exhaust piping / mufflers. Does it drive ok? Because that is when you will really notice a misfire. It won't be air escaping, it will be air rushing into the pod filter.

235/40 as an absolute minimum width, but I would suggest a 255/40 is a better / safer fit.

I used Bride rails to mount a Recaro driver's seat. Seem to recall I had to make a very minor mod with regard to the seat mounting holes.

Try Azzco in Hoppers. They fitted front bearings to my 32.