blind_elk

My 6yo refrigerator is exhibiting the symptoms of a low refrigerant level. I have the frig compartment cranked up to the max, but can only get it down to around 13C (should be around 4C). The freezer is about half, but only run around -3C (should be around -18C). Just wondering if there is a refrigeration mechanic out there who can confirm the diagnosis and possibly fix. TIA

The diff in a RB25 sump is probably NOT the same as either a RB20 or RB26 diff. If the RB25 is from a Stagea, then the diff is a 4.083:1 . Not sure what the R33 GTS4 diff ratio is. But it is probably not 4.375:1 (R32 GTS4) or 4.111:1 (RB26) Assuming the RB26 comes with a sump, the simplest solution is to swap the RB20 differential unit* into the RB26 sump. * differential unit = crown wheel + pinion

If you have fuel diluting the engine oil, you have a problem. I would strongly recommend an oil change immediately, then investigate why the oil is being contaminated by petrol (possibly a blowby problem). And gutting the cat can be highly expensive - if you get caught with a gutted cat. Replace it if you think it's contributing to the problem.

You don't say exactly what condition causes it to "pop". It might be that the TPS isn't shutting off correctly, causing the engine to over-fuel on gear changes (throttle closed situations). The flames can often be caused by a small leak in the exhaust that allows fresh air to be drawn into the exhaust to mix with hot fuel-rich gasses, creating an explosive mixture.

XKLABA, You are talking about the gauge, and, yes, they are problematic in that the sender sometimes fails or gives erratic signals. I'm talking about the "Oh $HIT" light. I can't recall ever having the light come on even if the gauge is reading 0. Only time is when I genuinely have low oil, and therefore low, ie 0, oil pressure.

Have you checked the oil level in the sump? Have you changed the oil recently? (if not, maybe you should). My experience is that the oil pressure light is usually not caused by a fault in the sender; it genuinely means that there is no oil pressure.

I had this same problem many years ago, although I had to rev to around 3k before the alternator would start charging. IIRC, it was a blown diode in the alternator. If you can, you should return the alternator as faulty. I'm not sure if the fault is repairable. As for the voltage difference, you lose voltage through the wiring. The further from the source, the bigger the voltage loss.

I have 2, 1 for 32 and 1 for work. Basically there "in case". (actually, didn't have it on once and had a near miss, so always have it on now). I run them off the cig lighter socket so I know they will be working. Although its supposedly HD, doesn't look the clearest when played back on my laptop, but laptop doesn't have HD monitor.

I ran a thermo in my 32 for a short while, and had problems keeping the engine cool at any time, but particularly on the track. (Mild day (25ish) at Winton, 1 lap, engine boiling. same day, Highway cruise, slight uphill, thermo cuts in.) I put the standard clutch fan back on, and haven't hade a problem since. (Mild day QR, 4 laps, engine slightly over thermostat temp.) I would strongly recommend staying clutch, otherwise if you go thermo, spend a lot of effort in making sure air goes through the radiator.

Don't know if its a problem in the 33s, but 32s are prone to the welds on the pedal box breaking.

AAC needs a clean

The relationship between the upper control arm and the tyre is a constant, fixed by the size of the king pin. Raising / lowering the suspension will not alter your problem. Your problem is related to the width of the tyres / rims, and the wheel offset.

That suggests that the engine is flooding, probably due to dirty injector needles not closing properly and letting fuel into the cylinders when its not needed. So, time to rip out the injectors and have them sonic cleaned.

Cold start valve (the "torpedo" one) could be cactus. AAC valve may not be set correctly. Could need a good clean of the injectors. What is the condition of the spark plugs? Will it start if you give it a bit of throttle?

Being the first incarnation of ATTESSA, the version in the R32 was quite crude, and relatively slow to react (compared with the versions in R33, R34). So it's quite likely that your manouvres on the skidpan are happening so quickly that ATTESSA can't keep up, and may lag behind or just give up in despair.

Why did you even consider it MIGHT work?????

Became aware of one going in Melbourne east - going concern, asking $10800. PM me for details if you are interested.

First up, the RB25 from a 33 GTS4 is N/A - Nissan didn't ever install a turbo engine. Probably because a RB25DET is closer in power to the RB26 than the RB20DET is. Second - the vast majority of Stageas are autos; manuals are few and far between. I have swapped the RB25DET from a Stagea into my R32 GTS4 (manual), which runs up to 180 awKw, and the original RB20 gearbox is still fine. So if you want to go RB25DET + manual, I would suggest a Stagea engine and R32 GTS4 manual gearbox.

The towing capacity is usually related to weight. When you consider a 33 + trailer has got to be close to 2T, I doubt there is a sedan type vehicle out there that was designed to be towing that much weight. (1.5T might be the best you will find, so basically a mid-sized caravan) Your Territory has got to be your best bet. Even then, you might need some upgrades, like electric brakes on the trailer.

I would have said use the GTS4 crown wheel and pinion. They have a ratio of 4.375:1, and will be slightly better for acceleration than the GT-R ratio 4.111:1. However, I would expect 600hp can more than compensate for the GT-R ratio.

Talk to Joe @ Azzco - 9369 9844. Located top end of Old Geelong Rd, next to Sexyland.

If you're concerned about running out of thread, you could fit some helper springs.

You might have more success finding "rocking horse poo", or even "hens teeth". Anyway, why not come along the the next monthly meeting of NDSOC, @ Tower Hotel in Hawthorn East, on Wed 5 Nov - 6:30ish for dinner before meeting @8pm.

Maybe just needs a clean with wire brush or degreaser.

If the Link can control the fans, then use new dedicated wiring / relays. Much simpler.