SargeRX8

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About SargeRX8

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    Rank: RB30E

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    https://skytechdrones.com.au
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  • Location
    Sydney

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  • Car(s)
    S2 R33 GTST

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  1. Hi All, I'm planning towards my special day and I would love my vehicle to be a White GTR(35). The fine details are not worked out just yet but this is for 16th of May 2020. The car will be driven from my place(Merrylands) to the Church(Parramatta 2.5km drive), some photos will be taken and that is it. There is a chance we may be going to another location for photos but at this stage that is not the plan. We will give plenty of notice. I am not fussed about year model or modifications, I just need a white, clean R35 GTR. If anyone is keen, please let me know what you would like for the hire of your car. I am happy to pay a deposit to secure the day if required.
  2. SargeRX8

    They can be pulled out. Should i just pull them out and clean out the grease if theyre going to be used inside the transfer case?
  3. Hi All, I know its probably not the right spot to post but mechanics are mechanics. Background info, car developed an annoying whine. Slowly got worse. This is the sound. Its the big bearing on the end of the viscous coupling. None the less, Subaru want a kidney for the bearing. The bearing part number is 6911. My local shop ordered me a japanese KSM 6911 but there is a 2RS stamp on the bearing, indicating it is a double rubber seal bearing. Shop guy said these work better than standard open bearings as crap and gunk will not get into the bearing and they're pregreased. My concern is the heat. I understand the standard open bearing will have continuous oil flow, helping pull heat away. Is this of a concern? VS Does anyone know any shop or contact who has NSK 6911 open bearings available in Australia? All help is greatly appreciated.
  4. SargeRX8

    I just had a proper look, it seems the black "seal" around the outside isn't actually a seal. Its just a fascia, so to speak, to cover the gap between the glass and metal. It can be salvaged by removing the glass from the inside of the vehicle but new pieces can't be purchased aftermarket and Nissan won't sell them separately! I'll just cut the glass out from the old seal, clean up the metal and stikaflex it back together.
  5. Hey all, Well since those 4 days of rains which happened here I have discovered a leak.... and some serious rust. Its all around the driver side rear quarter window, the rear most lower corner and across the top which slopes towards the back. I wanted to see how bad it was so removed the trim inside and sprayed it with water. Its bad. Water gushed in and rolled down towards the front of the car into the seal. Now my concern here is the thick seal which sits around the window it self, from the outside. Where do I get a new one of these? The old one seems shit, it is hard and bends but will not return to shape very well. I feel what I need to do is pop this seal off, cut the seal shit between the glass and metal, cut the rust out or see how bad it is, fix it, reseal the glass and then reinstall the seal. Does anyone have any suggestions? I saw a post here and someone suggested the seal and window are all 1 piece and are around 500 from a Nissan dealer. Not an option. I have the glass, why the hell do I need to replace the glass? Can I reuse the thing if I pull it off? I am located in Sydney so if anyone can suggest any shops(before I ask my brother to do it) that can do the work please advise.
  6. SargeRX8

    It should fit. I have +15 on my GTST and it touched the guards. Rolled them and fine. Sure its a little less offset but you have much wider guards. Also use this calculator for change in speedo http://www.inawise.com/tyre-calculator/tyre-size-calculator.html I made sure I calculated my tyres and wheels, with new config at 100km/h I'm doing 99.3km/h
  7. They aren't bad performance wise but the noise is horrible. The evos i had before were a much better but not available at the time.
  8. SargeRX8

    Ontop but off topic, is this an alright timing light? http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-store/products/Stanley-Inductive-Xenon-Timing-Light.aspx?pid=9702#Recommendations Does the pickup sit on the look to coilpack 1?
  9. SargeRX8

    For me this was broken spring in the master cylinder. Either rebuild the master with new spring and seal or replace it.
  10. SargeRX8

    Ah that sucks bro. Man, I really feel for you. But at the end of the day, the car may go but you walked away. Car can be replaced. I had an accident which wrote off my old skyline. This was thanks to a woman with no Australian license running a red. Like you she had no insurance. I won my court case but she has no money to pay. This was some years ago now.
  11. That turbo is utter trash. You have a high comp engine, with a turbo of that size, you will probably blow your engine. Being a high comp engine, you want to run less boost. If you don't want to sell your car and get a GTST, then upgrade your brakes and drop a det motor in the car. And for the love of skylines, DO NOT use a trash eBay turbo. If you're gonna do it, do it properly.
  12. SargeRX8

    Egg in radiator to block pin hole leaks. Degreaser on rags can help remove stubborn stains on the paint work. Works great on the bumper. Toothpaste to clean headlights works but its more expensive than buying a proper plastic lens cleanser. You don't need the kit.
  13. SargeRX8

    No matter what I put in my car, nothing got rid of the squeal. Variety of pads, machining, that weird brake anti noise shit, shims, no shims and I still have squeal when coming to a stop. Edges are chambered off, all components were wire wheel cleaned. I bought new retaining clips. I bought new shims. I tried soft shims that Remsa pads come with. The annoying thing is my squeal comes from my rear passenger and SOMETIMES front passenger. That's it. With the shims, I think the ones which sit between the pad and caliper are crucial to noise. Most pads have dampened shims stuck on the back which is great but the two shims on each end of each pad are important. I've lost mine.
  14. SargeRX8

    I've done the grounding mod. The pump never has an issue. Voltage is stable in the vehicle. I've beefed up the grounding wire and I think I also beefed up the wiring in the tank but yeah essentially just grounded the pump control module.
  15. SargeRX8

    Its genuine, I bought it off you. Its heat related. The car will not do it when it starts but builds up to it. Tomorrow should be about 15c cooler than today so will test and see what happens. Noise I can live with but the afr's changing so drastically(from 13.8 idle to 16.7) isn't good. Seems only to affect idle though. Would beefing up the wiring further help?