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nouveau_poor

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About nouveau_poor

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    Rank: RB20DE
  • Birthday September 23

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    Male
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    Washington DC

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    dasmuter@yahoo.com

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  • Car(s)
    1990 R32 GTR
  • Real Name
    Dave

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  1. The thing with R ratings is that it varies a lot. Some cars with R ratings were only involved in a fender bender or other minor traffic accident where a body panel was repaired/replaced. While other R rated cars can be barely running. If I remember correctly, R ratings are given to cars where an insurance claim was filed. Auction inspectors are typically pretty diligent about noting rust on the sheet and typically check the common areas. However, they can miss some things with the volume of cars that go through auction. When I imported my car I consider myself fortunate that it arrived as the sheet described. However, tucked in the rear wheelwell was a spot of minor rust that wasn't marked on the sheet. I'm not sure if the inspector missed it, or it didn't pass some sort of threshold to require a "rust" note on the sheet. It wasn't to bad to fix, but the point is, the auction sheets are not 100% accurate all the time. On the flip side, sellers might not mention all the mods that they've done to the car. For example, my car came with an oil filter relocation kit, various HKS electronics, a Mine's strut bar, some aftermarket stainless piping, BeeR downpipe etc. that I had no idea about until after purchase. The seller's note area is rather small so on a heavily modified car it is to be expected that not everything will fit on the sheet, especially if the original owner sells their car to a dealer, who then puts it up for auction. Typically the more times a car changes hands before reaching the auction house the less accurate the parts list becomes. As much as I don't like to say it, buying cars from auction houses, sight unseen, based only on an auction sheet is a bit of a gamble, which can either work out in your favor or not. Hell, most listings only have 4 or so low-res photos of the car. Most brokers are able to access more/better photos through some sort of auction system but some listings literally only have a couple. Don't get me wrong, bidding on a higher grade car will usually get you a high quality vehicle, but the risk is never 0. And the risk will only increase as the grades go down. For documentation, unfortunately usually the only info you'll get is what's on the auction sheet. If you have a contact or broker in Japan, you might be able to ask them to ask the auction house about any documentation/paperwork but YMMV. For example, my vehicle's auction sheet made no mention of work/maintenance records but once the car was purchased, my broker found the owner's maintenance log with some other things in the car's glovebox during the post-purchase inspection. To be honest, I don't know if he would have been able to get his hands on that log before the car was purchased. In my case, most of the details came after the car was in my broker's possession such as various videos and tons of photos. Most brokers offer this service for free or at least included in their fee. The auction houses themselves dont do any sort of post-auction inspection. Anything they know about the car is typically listed on the sheet up front.
  2. Assuming that you use an auction/import broker, some groups will outright refuse to bid on or import "junk" cars. The one I used to import my car stated this on their site. However, most will be fine with importing R grade cars if they are streetworthy, so maybe my memory of auction grades is fuzzy. I've heard that Grade 3 is technically the lowest auction grade before some people would consider it "un-streetworthy" which could mean anything from either the engine wont turn over to it not meeting certain safety requirements (though this is of less concern for a drift car). To my knowledge, the auction grades are mostly for interior and exterior condition like body work, rust, paint, etc. They'll point out obvious problems like certain functions not working, any obviously aftermarket parts, and include notes from the original seller. Though rare, it's possible to get a grade 3.5/4 car that looks good but doesn't run strong, and vice versa with a low grade car that's still got a sound engine. Unfortunately when this happens most people find out which they end up with once they've already bought the vehicle. I'm pretty sure there is a process where if the car differs significantly enough from what is represented on the auction sheet you can get the auction house to take it back but I don't know the details. Things like engine state/condition are not heavily assessed by auction houses so it's hard to know things like engine health or compression results. Most buyers make educated guesses based on the condition of the rest of the car, the presence of work records/lack thereof, and verified/unverified mileage. If you're lucky you can have someone knowledgeable about a particular car (like skylines or RBs) inspect a car of interest in person or more rarely, get a copy of the car's maintenance records/paperwork before you purchase. If you don't plan on using a broker, nothing's preventing you from bidding on anything, just get a good translator and read the auction sheets carefully. As for pricing, from my experience the heavily modified or damaged cars don't get too much attention and the prices don't normally get high like a grade 4 or mostly factory vehicle, since those cars usually sell so that their prices can be further inflated by the new seller, or be kept in good condition by the new owner. Those looking specifically to get beater condition cars to usually are not the one's shelling out big bucks at auction unless they know it's something really special.
  3. Yeah I've actually got an apexi kit I've been meaning to put on since I saw that link a while back (I've seen some threads question the validity of the test but I tend to err on the side of caution). I got fresh HKS filters soon after I got the car, maybe ~800km ago, more as a placeholder for once I got the apexis on. Thanks for the input. Most of my driving is either parkways for pleasure driving or long highway miles. 90's vehicles don't exactly have the best sound deadening so the drone from the tomei would probably get real old real fast on an 8 hour trip to visit family.
  4. Like above, you could also try Steelstick, made by the JB Weld folks. It's like play-dough and can be had at most any store with a hardware section. A another solution would be to weld a patch over the hole.
  5. Hi all, after reading various threads and watching various YT videos I've narrowed down my exhaust choices to either the HKS Super Turbo or Tomei Expreme TI for my R32 GTR. I like the sound of both and both can support my power goals down the road. I have a slight leaning towards the HKS as I appreciate it being quieter and smoother sounding. The Tomei has a slightly larger diameter at 90mm vs 85mm, weighs about 10kg less, looks a bit prettier, costs a bit less, and is titanium. HKS lists their decibel levels and ground clearance on their spec sheet, but Tomei does not (Though they have a decibel reading for their more expensive Sports Titanium exhaust). My question is, does anybody have/know of any other Tomei decibel readings and possibly the ground clearance once installed? Any opinions on sound or knowledge from experience is welcome too. I've read a thread where someone with a Tomei said they were idling at 90db and passing 103db+ at 3k rpm even with a silenced decat pipe. That seems terribly loud and could get tedious quite quickly. It sounds great in videos, but if those decibel readings are right then I'm not sure if I'd enjoy it for long. The db are more about the comfort for me than getting onto a track, as I don't intend on doing any track days any time soon. Another thread had an owner switching from a titanium exhaust to the Super Turbo and being quite pleased. I have a fairly stock car engine wise, but HKS intakes and a Bee-R equal length downpipe as far as parts that affect sound. It's not lowered significantly, maybe an inch or so from factory on Hipermax IV coilovers with out of the box recommended settings. INB4 some folks swear by custom exhausts but in my area there aren't really any shops that do that sort of thing and the few with exhaust experience cost some BIG dollars.
  6. You can buy the genuine 3 piece skirts through your retailer of choice (i.e Nengun). Nissan released them with some other aero bits through the heritage program fairly recently but of course they cost a pretty penny. Or, you can get some replicas, usually just the rear sideskirt portion to either replace your cracked ones or fit over your existing plain sideskirt. Rear spats I'm pretty sure your only option for genuines is get lucky and find a decent set of used ones and even then you'd likely need a small loan for the price they typically go for. Yahoo Auctions is probably the easiest place find them. Otherwise reps are your other option.
  7. Pleased to say that my hunch was correct. I picked up a Nismo 320km speedo for a reasonable price and confirmed that it had the speed sensor in there before putting everything back together. Tested again with Nissan Data Scan and finally got a functional ECU speed reading for the first time! Drove down to my local hardware store for a few things and NO MORE HICAS LIGHT! Hope these posts help someone else down the line. To be honest, I think I'll probably get a HICAS eliminator kit down the line but for now at least I can enjoy the thought of my car with a working unit and the "spirit" of one of the GTRs main features.
  8. Update on this: Was testing continuity based on the pinouts above and my multimeter was beeping normally. GTSBoy was right, the other wire 14 seems to be linked to the cars ignition. While I had the speedo out I figured I'd take the meter itself out to test the wires of the speed sensor, or at least look at its condition. Turns out, I probably found the answer to my issue since the Kakimoto speedo that the previous owner put in seems to be from a late model meter. There is no sensor that the ribbon cable connects to like it's supposed to (last photo), therefore no signal. Maybe the previous owner didnt mind the heavy steering and just wanted the increased speed reading, but I'll see to getting a proper meter. Hopefully this is the fix that finally resolves this.
  9. Poked around a bit more in the service manual (slow day) and found this section under wire diagrams for "W-1 4WD Vehicles (RB20DET/RB26DETT equipped models)". This diagram and pinout is slightly different than the one shown in the speedometer wiring section posted previously. The one posted previously seems to correspond to the wiring diagram shown in "C-1 4WD Vehicles (RB20DET/RB26DETT equipped models)". This does explain the note about pin 15 not being in the photo, which matches the W-1 diagram below. Apparantly that circle with the squiggle in it connected to pin 13 and 14 is the vehicle speed sensor. Makes sense because you can see both of these pins connecting to circuits that trace into where the sensor is. Would it be accurate to say that one of these pins is connected to wire 53? What about the other pin connected to the VSS? If one is for wire 53, what wire is the other pin for and what does it do? I'd assume id have to check both for continuity. What is the difference between C-1 and W-1 and what does it mean? A lot of oddities today.
  10. So I'm trying to track down the reason why my vehicle speed sensor isn't sending signal to the ECU. This all stems from my HICAS light coming on after driving for a while, and the heavier steering that comes with it. I've already ruled out or fixed the typical causes like speedometer cable issues, steering wheel alignment, and power steering fluid. I know for a fact that it works because I can test the functionality using the "simulate drive" function in the Nissan Data Scan tool So long story short, I think I've narrowed down the cause of the light: When I plug my computer into the OBD port for Nissan Data Scan use, and drive around a bit, all the readings function as they should save for one, the vehicle speed reading. It shows zero regardless of actual vehicle speed and does not move at all despite the speedometer cluster operating as it should. This leads me to believe that the speed signal is not reaching the ECU as it should. My guess is that the vehicle speed sensor in the back of the speedometer unit must be faulty. A more concerning possibility is that the speed sensor wire from the ECU to the speedometer is bad/broken. From the glance that I took of the ECU, wire 53 has not been cut/tampered with. From my understanding reading various threads, wire 53 goes into the back of the speedometer via those square plugs for the speed signal and the part of the ribbon cable/printed circuit that goes inside of the back of the speed meter assembly (early model, yellow, 1990) is the bit of cable that connects to the speed sensor. Shown in picture. Tracing the circuits that come out of this section of cable leads to the middle speedometer plug. My question is, which speedometer plug pin corresponds to wire 53 on the ECU? I'd like to test for continuity with a multimeter to verify that the wire is good before whipping the wallet out to buy and try a new speedometer cluster. Does anyone know from experience or have a different pin diagram? In the service manual, the only mention I've found of the VSS just says to check wire 53, and the pinout diagram of the speedometer cluster in the manual has no mention of the speed sensor. Shown below. Unfortunately, I can't guess based off of the green/yellow wire color on mine as the wire colors are obscured up to the plug. The picture of the back of the speedo is not of mine, and it's hard to make out which wire goes where. Just added for reference (Other note, according to the pin diagram below, there should be a wire for pin 15, but the plug in the photo shows no wire going into that slot?)
  11. Hello from a fellow American You mentioned gold coilovers, so they might be one of the HKS Hipermax IV series. Solid and quality units!
  12. I'd agree that on a factory 32 the non-angular areas would look odd, especially the rear. But there's some kit out there with more straight edges along the ground that might be able to swing it. I wouldn't go so far as to call the R35 Nismo an abomination haha The 50th anniversary edition with that white skidmark down it's center maybe!
  13. Hey all, I'm in the market for a driver's side glass assembly to replace my current one. It's a 1990 R32 GTR and it has the common door window scratches from the window stabilizer foam things turning to stone after decades. They're deep so they're definitely visible and are highly unlikely to buff out. I checked with Nengun and they said that every compatible glass assembly/part number is discontinued. If anyone has a RH coupe glass assembly laying around or is parting out their vehicle let me know and we can work something out. I'm in the US but would of course pay for the overseas shipping. Thanks!
  14. So I'm pretty sure most have seen the Nismo edition R35 with the red striping that ads some flair and definition to lower areas of the car. Looks sharp in my opinion. A lot of R35 owners say that they do it with pinstripe tape if they don't want to shell out for an OEM kit. So my question is, has anybody tried or seen something similar on an R32 GTR? That is, accent striping on the front lip, side skirts, and rear bumper. My imagination says it could work nicely but then again my imagination often betrays me. Throw up some pics if you got them. Might even fiddle around in a Forza livery editor or something!
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