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nouveau_poor

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About nouveau_poor

  • Rank
    Rank: RB20DET
  • Birthday September 23

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Washington DC

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  • Car(s)
    1990 R32 GTR
  • Real Name
    Dave

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  1. Front end could use some work, the grilles of previous renders looked better in my opinion. Looks fantastic from the inside and side view. The rear I have mixed feelings about, the lights themselves are neat but the black bar they are on looks a bit out of place. I might be nit-picking, but the rear badge also appears very large but it might be my imagination. Maybe it'll grow on me.
  2. Americans will pay unholy amounts for an R34. Whether the over inflation is from Fast and Furious, Need for Speed, or something else, there is no question that the buyers have quite a lot of disposable income. These cars are status symbols at this point. Those who bought theirs before the prices went moonshot really are lucky.
  3. fair enough sure, but why get rid of the timer if he's already got it? The other post sounded like the timer itself would cause an issue.
  4. Why get rid of the turbo timer? I thought they were a good thing for turbo engines to let them sit for a bit after driving before shutting off the engine.
  5. Not exactly parts, but I have a muffler towel signed by the Impul grid girls last year and a shirt signed by Kazuyoshi Hoshino at Tokyo Auto Salon. Other than that it'd be my small collection of old Nismo interior bits.
  6. Hi all, first sale post here. I have a Power FC and Commander that I'm looking to sell. I'm in the United States and can ship anywhere domestically for free, but can also ship internationally at buyers expense. It's an L-Jetro for use with AFMs. Was functioning great when pulled from the car. Feel free to ask questions! Asking for $500 USD I'll leave the post up for as long as it's available. It's also on eBay if you prefer that. See pictures below.
  7. Can confirm Americans will sell their kidney for anything with the numbers 3 and 4 in the model number. Even more if you have a Paul Walker sticker/reference on it
  8. It won't be a daily driver, more a weekend/pleasure car but it seems like the consensus is that light pulleys will cause some form of drop, so it'd be wise to just leave them be if the OEM pulleys can keep on chugging.
  9. Sorry for the crap quality but this is the the best angle I could get on them. Similar to the photo up top, the belt ribbing area seems to have gotten some of what appears to be surface rust over the last 30 years, like how Duncan was describing the anodizing coming off his Greddy's I presume. If it's as easy as just giving them a good clean while they're off then I might as well do that and save a few bucks. If not, well that's why I'm looking at potential replacements.
  10. Thanks for the insights. So it seems that if I fit standard size pulleys then I won't have the voltage or PS side effects. Is the wear on the OEM pulleys anything worth concern or is there a way to gauge when one should replace them? I might just replace them with the aluminum and be done with it. Is there a part number for the greddy standard pulley kit? There seems to only be 1 size that is sold currently. Edit: Dug around and back in the day greddy made an 'oversized' kit which has since been discontinued. https://www.nengun.com/greddy/pulley-kit-oversized This leads me to assume the one currently available is the standard size
  11. Hey all, I've been taking a look at new accessory pulleys (water, PS, alternator) as part of something I might want to refresh as part of my R32 GTR engine build. I'm shooting for around 450-500 wheel hp for a street car and am planning on replacing the factory harmonic balancer with one from Fluidampr if that is relevant to my question. I've noticed that my accessory pulleys seem to have a little bit of surface wear (surface rust?) on the ribbing where the pulleys contact the belts. No issues or abnormalities with the pulley or vehicle performance but I figured if I'm going to have them removed as part of the engine build, why not replace them while they're easy to access. Does anyone have experience with Greddy or KTS "lightweight" pulley kits? I'm not really expecting any performance improvement but rather just replacing for durability. I've heard that they are larger than factory and underdriven pulleys can cause unwanted side effects like low alternator voltage or reduced cooling at low rpm. Has anyone experienced this? https://www.rhdjapan.com/trust-greddy-pulley-kit-bnr32.html https://www.rhdjapan.com/kts-sc-pulley-pulley-system-3-pc-set-bnr32.html They are the same price, possibly cheaper where I am, as OEM pulleys, but I wouldn't want to chance dead batteries or a hotter engine in traffic. Should I bother replacing my pulleys at all if the wear is normal? This isn't my pulley, but shows what I mean when I say "wear"
  12. Thanks, this was the route I was going to go when I replace the radiator with a Koyo. Wanting to do the radiator, hoses, belts, pulleys, and probably fan in one go.
  13. Think I got it sorted out today. Getting the hose off was testing my patience as it was bloated in the center, so getting the spring clips past the little nozzle "nub" area was damn near impossible. Resorted to cutting it off with a razor. Found the source of the leak, there is a tiny split on the rear of the hose that wasn't visible when still on, and matched the location of where the drips were coming from. See below. Went to the auto shop and got a length of hose for a few dollars and new screw type clamps. The old spring clamps still seemed strong and ok but why not get new hardware if I'm already at the store. Learn from my mistakes if you end up reading this thread and have the same issue. I dont know if there is a way to avoid this short of draining all your coolant beforehand, but there will be coolant in this hose and the tubes it connects to. So when you slip it off (but you'll actually cut it off) the coolant will start leaking out. I have a sizable puddle of the stuff on the garage floor that I still have to clean up. Paper towels might help to soak up a bit but if you can get a container of some sort to squeeze in that narrow space to catch it until it stops, that'd be best. Secondly, if you don't get the molded Nissan hose for 25-30ish dollars and get plain hose like I did, do not cut the plain hose to the same length as the original hose. I did that the first time and even with the slight bend/curvature due to the hose coming off the roll, it's not the same as the OEM. What this will result in, is that there will be a rather sharp bend causing the center portion of the new hose to bow out, as though it were being pinched, once it's on since the two nozzles the hose joins are rather close together as in the photos. I was afraid that this bowing was decreasing the inner diameter of that area and could lead to higher pressure so I took it off. Adding insult to injury, even after trying lubricant, the only way I could get it off was to cut it off again since the work space is so small. What you'll want to do is cut the hose to a bit shorter than the original. By doing so it'll allow both sides to connect but still allow room for the hose to "push" further along the nozzle so the sharp bend/kink doesn't occur, with plenty of room behind the nozzle nubs to clamp down on. Will be getting an alignment done in the next day or so for some suspension work I did recently and I'll have them top off the coolant I lost and bleed the system, as I'm pretty sure that there is some air in there after removing the hose. Happy Easter
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