blind_elk

I sold my house recently, and have been renting it back off the new owners. It was understood that the lease was short term, and I would be required to vacate before Xmas. I have been looking since early November, but no-one will rent me a house for myself and my four "children" (Jack Russell and 3 cats). I would be extrememly grateful if someone on the forums could: a) rent me a house (best case) - 3br, double garage, to $320/wk b) rent me (and the animals) a room short term until I can find somewhere of my own. Needs to be in the Wyndham area. TIA

The PCV only opens under vacuum, so it has no adverse effects on the engine if it inhales oily air at idle. If it did, the engineers would have found another way to achieve the result, which is to reduce emissions of engine gasses to the atmosphere. Oil in the intake stream is only a problem under load, because oil is a serious octane reducer. To the OP, if it ain't broke, don't fiddle with it.

I had a similar problem with 260Z stuff in a 240Z. Turned out that a rubber block inside the booster had fallen off its location. I'd start looking there.

There are any number of threads that deal with this problem. First, have you ever had the throttle bodies cleaned around the butterflies? If so, bad luck, you have introduced an air leak that is next to impossible to eliminate. The TPS might not be sending the "throttle closed" signal to the ECU. This problem might also be evident during (upward) gear changes where the engine will tend to hold revs during the shift. To set the idle with the AAC, you need to disconnect the TPS before making adjustments toi the AAC screw.

I think this juddering problem is caused by something stupid like a faulty connection in the TPS - try checking the plug.

auto or manual?

That's for HICAS! Maybe the relay is acting up after a while - try a new one.

This forum has been around for over 11 years. Before that, we were on SkylinesDownUnder. How come, in all that time, not one member has ever asked about suspension for a 32 GT-R?

Short trips, incorrect heat range plugs - no wonder you have absolute crap economy. Try running a 6 heat range for starters. And plan your trips better so the engine operates at the correct temperature for most of the time.

How much fuel did you put in to fill the tank? Driving style is always a big contributor to fuel economy - good or bad. If you consistently use boost, you will get crap economy. Unless you can CRUISE - on a constant throttle - the O2 sensor will not play any significant role in getting good fuel economy. City driving, or any form of on/off throttle driving, is not conducive to getting the ECU to pay any attention to the O2 sensor. If you let the engine warm up before driving anywhere, then of course you will get crap economy - burning fuel to do no distance doesn't make sense.

All I can find in my workshop manual is to "align conrod bearing retaining notches and install (left side)" Presuming "left side" when looking at front of engine.

Go to: aomc.asn.au There's a link to all the car clubs that participate in the scheme. (CSA is a member of AOMC, Z Club of Sydney/NSW doesn't appear to be a member).

It's not supposed to be a means to get "cheap rego". If the car is your daily, then it really should have full rego / CTP.

With the attesa tweaker, have you read Julian Edgar's article on his early attempts to build such a device? Quite interesting how attesa works. After what I said above, I would recommend taking a bit of camber out of the arse end, to 1, maybe even .75 -ve. And pump an extra 2psi into the front tyres.

Things that affect understeer: reduce understeer by: - front tyre pressure : higher - rear tyre pressure : lower - front tyre profile : higher - rear tyre profile : lower - front camber : more negative - rear camber : less negative - front springs : softer - rear springs : stiffer - front bar : softer - rear bar : stiffer

I'm sure other people have had a similar problem - that's why there is the 'search' function. Had you searched, you would have discovered that the light is an 'error' indicator, and that AWD doesn't work (torque gauge doesn't work) in an 'error' situation. Anyway, I remember a thread recently where the problem was caused by a loose screw floating around in the ATTESA ECU. Clayton, don't you mean "throw"?

Highly doubt it will have anything to do with the O2 sensor. Melbourne suburban driving is predominantly stop / start, accelerate / decelerate; not conducive to the ECU paying any attention to the voltages coming off the O2 sensor. If you want to check the health of the O2 sensor, try getting on the Hume and CRUISE up to Albury, then check fuel economy. Low &/or erratic idle will usually be associated with a dirty AAC valve. Additionally: - get injectors cleaned - check fuel pressure at the rail. The biggest cause of poor fuel economy is the lump of lead attached to the end of the right leg. FWIW, the RB25DET in my R32 regularly gets 400k+ to a tank, in Melbourne suburban driving (includes "a little reckless sometimes"). May I offer a spot of advice here - it is not necessary to hit boost through every gear change when you have a RB25DET. The engine has more than sufficient torque to get even the whale that is the R33 up and boogeying without the use of boost.

Outer tie rods are GT-R. Generally suspension stuff is the same as GT-R.

Everyone seems to be forgetting that late versions of the R32 DID come out with a RB25DE. So there shouldn't be any sort of problem in doing the downgrade.

The ride height has (generally) very little impact on the tyre size required. After all, you are lowering the car by adjusting the suspension, not the height of the tyre. There are threads, admittedly years old, that detail the optimum lowered ride height for the R32. Bob - 205/55R16 is the standard tyre for a (R32) GT-R. 235 is too wide to be fitted to the standard rim - it will cause the speedo to read under (tyre will be "puffed" to a larger rolling diameter). If you start playing with profiles you need to adjust the rim diameter accordingly (lower profile, larger rim diameter). Since Caz already has the rims, it would be pointless to start playing with tyre profiles.

Not if you call people trying to help "bozo" ATTESA clearly relies on the ABS system working. If you've disabled ABS by removing the pump, then ATTESA is well within its rights to shut down as well. Have you confirmed that the AWD warning light is working?

If you used the loop on the ignitor, some timing guns double the timing, so you end up setting idle timing @30 BTDC.

ATTESA uses the ABS sensors for detecting wheel slip. If a lack of ABS didn't affect ATTESA, then why on earth would Nissan have built error codes into the system? Any error causes ATTESA to not work. If you don't have a AWD light, then have you checked the bulb is working?

detail here: www.rms.nsw.gov.au/registration/.../historic_vehicle_clubs_policy.pdf

It boils @130 because it is under pressure (from the radiator cap), not because it has coolant in the water - basic science. OP, is the thermo fan in front of the A/C radiator working?