blind_elk

Fitting an even heavier clutch is going to improve your chances of breaking the gearbox or other driveline component. The clutch needs to act like a fuse - it needs to slip before more power is transmitted further down the drive train. You surely need to strengthen all the other driveline components before you consider upgrading the clutch (fuse). Otherwise, it will be like using a 6" nail as a (house) fuse, and then wondering why the kettle blows up.

Clean the injectors.

Unless the engine is seriously modified, a "7" heat range plug is just WRONG. (Those plugs are recommended for various NA low performance engines). The recommended plug for a GT-R is a PFR6A-11 (although most people tend to use something like BCPR6E). So you need a "6" heat range, and seeing as you have relatively new Splitfire coils, open the gap back out to over 1mm (40 thou). I'll theorise that if one MAF was misbehaving, then you would have different "leanness" indicated in 1 / 2 / 3 compared to 4 / 5 / 6. The old plugs are probably black because they weren't getting up to temperature (usually a result of short trips).

GTRs are notoriously sensitive to voltage. Even if the car can start on the battery, the ECUs might be seeing high charge rates necessary to replenish the battery after starting as some sort of error. Get a new battery.

The A/F ratios sound perfectly average, ie roughly what they should be. It might be possible to tune the full load a BIT leaner. The "slowness" is possibly a function of the bigger / laggier (?) turbo.

My first question has to be - if you don't want to upgrade to 5-stud, why do you want to replace the brake components in the first place? I'm not an expert in S13 stuff, but I would expect that the brakes on a S13 would not be up to the standard / capacity of a R32 (even a GTS R32). Since the bulk of the braking is taken by the front brakes, I see little point in changing / upgrading the rear brakes.

Its highly unlikely to be the AAC or O2. I have money on dirty injectors.

Its not a wire Nissan put there, so God only knows where it goes.

About 8 or 9 years ago, I used Ceva to bring a 180B SSS from Brisbane to Melbourne. I had no problems, although some more recent users seem to have had problems. From memory it cost about $450, but as I said, 8 or 9 years ago. So $695 seems fair. (its a lot more expensive sending Mel -> Bris)

Tarneit

RB20DET Block I have a RB20DET block that I just want out of my garage. No sump, no head, no rods/pistons. Please just come and take it away, PLEASE!

It will depend almost entirely on the oil you have in the engine - viscosity, shear properties, how old it is, and lots more - and to a lesser extent how much oil is in there.

Caster is measured in degrees, not fingers. If you have the same degrees of caster on each side, then I don't see what the problem is.

"in the wet and decided I would give it a little poke" - don't do that!. That will certainly stop it happening again. But really, the problem is probably that the cable is frayed and cannot retract properly, so it needs to be replaced.

Grand Prix Ticket I have a general admission pass for Sat / Sun to the AGP. PM me if you are interested. First in, best dressed (preference to someone who can take the ticket for both days)

Any chance that the impeller on the water pump is failing? Does the car still have the undertray fitted?

Could also be a loose fanbelt. Or a dying fanbelt.

Your question is about as useful as "Doctor, I'm not feeling well". How about some info such as what it DOES do when you try and start it. Has it always not started, or has it recently started not starting? What vehicle is it installed in?

Cleaned the injectors? Replaced the fuel filter? Running the DET ECU? Set correct base timing? How many litres is "a tank of fuel"? If you are continually boosting, then 350k might not be such a bad consumption rate. Your starting problems - maybe a bad earth, or a dying starter motor.

Have you managed to isolate which cylinder is misfiring? (generally a misfire is when a cylinder basically shuts down, or only fires occasionally). Does it behave this way at all revs / loads, or only while moving? Have you had the injectors cleaned (not just injector cleaner cleaned)? Replaced the fuel filter? Changed the oil (although I suspect the oil temp contribution to the problem is purely coincidental)? Also, I think the plugs may need to be a heat range 5 (you are using 6s), and maybe just gap them down a bit (try 1mm initially). I'm assuming a relatively stock setup.

Don't understand why people keep saying RB20 boxes are weak. In my experience, Nissan boxes in general are pretty much bullet proof. Sure, if you start fitting massive clamping-force clutches, then it's possible you might break the box. But then that's like using a 6" nail as an electrical fuse, and complaining that your kettle blew up! I still have the original (over 250k) box in my R32 GTS4, although the engine has been replaced with a RB25DET that originally punched 180kW @ all four. Gearbox is still pretty much perfect.

Just leave the valve there. What you are installing is an oil-air separator. It effectively inserts between the exhaust rocker cover and the turbo intake. Everything else remains "factory". Somewhere on this forum is a photo of my setup. Some people claim its not "pretty", but it works. (here it is to save you the trouble)

You don't need to block off the PCV valve.

The plug in the cat is a temperature probe. You can safely run without it being connected. There should be a connector for the O2 sensor in the dump pipe.

My 3 rules of upgrade: 1. Make it STOP. Maybe fit some braided brake lines, slotted rotors, decent pads 2. Make it HANDLE. Swaybars first, then decent shock absorbers, then heavy duty springs 3. Make it go. However, if 1 & 2 are successful, you probably don't really need 3, especially if you aren't taking it on the track