blind_elk

If you are having to apply lots of pedal force, try servicing the calipers.

There's only .5mm increase in lift - can't see that being a problem. I'd suggest the RB20DET cam - same Lobe Centre Angle (Pre-set Valve Timing), slightly more lift and slightly longer duration (might be a useful thing for the big-arse hairdryer there)

Apologies for getting into this thread so late. Firstly, would everyone please stop referring to this device as a "catch can", it is an "oil-air separator". Secondly, the apparent installation is a bit iffy. Surely a simpler method: 1. Remove hose running from Ex rocker cover down to the turbo. 2. Leave hose connecting In rocker cover to Ex rocker cover 3. New hose from Ex rocker to Separator 4. New hose from Separator to turbo. 5. Stuff steel wool in Separator to act as a "seed" for the oil vapour to condense onto. No need for a third connection on the separator - block it off. Simplesness

Have you considered contacting Gibson Motorsport in Melbourne?

The Whiteline and Nolathane bushes are 2 totally different animals. The Nolathane units replace the factory bushes that locate the subframe to the chassis. The Whiteline are the "pineapples" you'll see referred to in many posts.

Which engine? 20 / 25 / 26? For a stock engine, plugs should be heat range 5 or 6, gapped @ 1.0 - 1.1 .

That was useful. Thanks, diff finally out. Now all I need to do is get the frikken shells out. This is what came out (+ shells still in pinion bush) This is what will be going in: I think the necessity of the task speaks for itself. I would like to replace the bushes that support the rear of the diff. Can it be done by dropping the cradle, but leave the diff in place?

Ok, I give up for now. Its like the diff isn't tilting down enough to slide under the pinion mount frame. But I have to get it out now because the existing bushes came out in several pieces, with the shell still stuck in place. Can someone email me the appropriate page from the manual so I can see how it all fits together. ([email protected])

I'm trying to remove the diff in my R32 GTS4 to replace the pinion mount bushes (seems like a good idea, as the existing bushes basically fell apart!). I did it about 10 years ago, and it seemed to work, but now I can't seem to get the diff to move forward enough to disengage the cradle (rear) mount. Also, I need to disconnect the ABS sensors, but can't work out how - twist?, pull?, ? And, while trying to figure all this out, I found a wire and bolt floating above the diff - what did I miss when I last did this?

Thanks for calling a truce! It is a S1 Stagea engine (probably equivalent to a S2 GTSt engine). Has VVT. Has been rebuilt with forged pistons. Think I'll save some coin and not do anything to it ?

A long time ago, I fitted a RB25DET from a Stagea into my R32 GTS4. I've recently started wondering if there are any differences between the Stagea head and a GTSt head - eg, cam profile, cam timing, chamber shape / size, inlet / exhaust port shape / size. Is it worth getting a GTSt head, or just GTSt cams, or it doesn't matter?

Then you need it to DISengage. Anyway This will do it.

You can all stop looking for a solution. When I initially installed the Wolf, I set up a little fuse box to protect things like injectors and coils. While I was installing the new bolts to the starter motor, I've accidentally removed a cable from that fuse box - so there was no power to the injectors.

Have you also contacted Nissan Datsun Sports Owners? ([email protected])

Well, I'm stumped. Got a compression tester and pressure gauge. I've got 44psi fuel pressure while cranking. Initial (cold) crank gives around 100psi across all cylinders, and final compression 135 / 125 / 130 / 127 / 130 / 130 (note: engine has forged pistons, so presumably will be a bit low on a cold crank). Engine can develop oil pressure during cranking. According to the Wolf: Cranking speed is around 220rpm, cranking volts 11V (Wolf handset). Injectors have power, coils are firing, input trigger is firing (ECU lights) Any suggestions as to where to look next. Anyone available in W Subs Melbourne to give me a hand.

I have spark, so at least the exhaust cam is turning the CAS. I'm guessing the rest of the engine is turning on the starter motor.

Short story long: Went out to fuel up the night before I was due to go to Phillip Island, Labour Day weekend. Car wouldn't start at servo, discovered missing top starter motor bolt and almost missing lower starter motor bolt . Managed to get lower bolt back in, starter worked. Drove to PI, drove home, everything fine. A week later, I removed the lower bolt so I could be sure I got the correct size replacement, got 2 new bolts for starter motor, fitted them (after basically removing everything from the engine bay ). Went to start the car (on a jump), just spins over - absolutely no sign of wanting to fire. I have spark. Pretty sure I have fuel (not confident of fuel pressure though). Don't know about compression (although don't know why it would suddenly disappear). Replaced fuel filter. Pretty sure I haven't disturbed any of the air hoses under the manifold (but how do you tell on these MFs). Any help / guidance appreciated. Engine is RB25DET, running off a Wolf 3D4+ ECU. Has basically been running fine since installed - this is the first real problem of this nature.

Do you know what fuel pressure you have with the adjustable FPR? Have you tried playing with the fuel pressure? Still running standard RB26 injectors?

The fuels will mix immediately. If you are overly worried, you could pop into your local auto parts store or servo and get a bottle of octane boost and add that to the tank.

It works fine with your friend's M/C installed?

Unfortunately Birds is a bit far away. Anyone closer to Tarneit can help?

Thanks Birds. Where can I pick them up (SMS me - 0421 331 954). I know which 1 has failed, but it feels like a second one is playing up (can eventually get the coil to play ball).

Me again. Another favour. One or more of the coil packs are in the process of failing. Any chance someone has a couple of spares for a S2 RB25DET I could borrow until a new set arrives. TIA

Hi all, hoping for a favour. The other day, my Pathfinder's starter failed - at the local shopping centre. So I need to get it home to fit a replacement starter motor. So wondering if anyone in the west (Tarneit to be precise) can give me a hand with a car and trailer to get the bugger home. TIA

I'm hoping the engine was up to temperature before all this happened.