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Tomak

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    r33 GTR
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    Tomasz

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  1. i mean how to set up the crank angle sensor, what deegrees it should be on crank pulley using strobe light.....? That was my question
  2. Hello, My car shows in Link G4 ignition angle parameter BTDC around 5-6 on idling (around 1000 rpm) What correct timing angle should be in rb25det then. Is there any corelation to this what Link g4 shows? How to set up the correct timing angle?
  3. Hello, What parts do i need to buy for r33 gtr getrag 6spd conversion? 2 x r34 prompt shaft for rear and front + r34 rear differential? I am looking to buy whole r34 set engine + getrag but also consider buying seperately. What ratio has a front r33 and r32 differential and does it matters with this 6spd convertion? Do i need to have also front differential from r34 gtr? What in the situation when i use front and rear differential from r33 with r34 6spd getrag. is it going to work this way or not?
  4. Hello, Looking for this parts 1. rb26dett r34 gtr + 6sp getrag gearbox ( i want to buy complete set with clutch and flywheel ) 2. r34 gtr rear differential 3. r34 front and rear prop shaft.
  5. I am using actually LINKG4 but never tried to do any temp corrections by myself and i have hard time reaching my tuner right now. He quit his job. Actually i am in position where i can try to fix it myself or need to pay another tuner for complete mapping from scratch again. I just went for a run on cold and it was smooth ride for 15 minutes on full loads at 1.7 bar so i guess all is ok with my car just overheating issues at some point.?? Maybe this is because of stronger turbo and i never do any temp corrections before. I had before gtx3071 gen 1 with max hp 550hp and did not have this issues. The problem start to occur more often on gtx3071r gen 2 max 650hp. I mean this gen 2 turbo feels much stronger even when i go only on 1 bar from spring, it has way more potential and its more aggressive. What corrections should i do in the Link G4 ECU? I need some instructions which parameters to change. Is the log necessary for this operation or not? I need to drive around 1h to get this log saved if this helps with anything. Is this engine temp overheating limiter?
  6. Hi guys, I have this problem in my new setup like turbo overboosting but its not overboosting...its just cutting my turbo off for some reasons at high and low rpms at different boost at heavy load. Like its living its own life. One night i dont have issues and can go for 1 hour without problems accelerate all the time on different gears at heavy load about 1.6 bar and after 1 hour of drving the turbo cuts again. Like i dont have a fck clue what it can be.... How is this possible that car accelerates one time clean and other time turbo is failing, like the boost is unstable or something, ?? I put new GTX3071 gen2 two weeks ago because i thought my turbo failured but the new one has the same issues. It only goes clean every time at low boosts from 1 to 1.3bars. When i hit 1.5-1.7 it feels like overboosting at some point. So i have changed the turbo already. On my manual turbo display i have overboosting set up limits to 2.0 bars, i run external westgate precision turbo 45mm with 1.0 bar spring. My turbo housing is 0.83 A/R v band and 6boost exhaust manifold. Rb25det engine IS OEM did not any mods to it.
  7. Yes you are right, not rich = hot. I remember having a hole in my turbo pressure hose and EGT was 950 C one time on my other setup i used to have.. So i think i know everything now. I need to check my fuel injections and to check all cylinders seperately because something is wrong here. I may have a mechanical problem with injections or its just bad mapping. My new tuner is going to take care of this issue i hope because i dont have contact to my old one and dont have any info about AFR.
  8. OK, thanks will fix it and do the new mapping so i can go lower with egt temp. Maybe i run too rich as my last tuner always said rich is better to protect engine damage. Is that normal that the pipes on the right are more overheated and more red on the picture? It looks like more exhaust gases flowing to the pipes on the right.....is that possible? The center of the pipes splitter is melted more to the right side. i marked this spot on blue. May be this a case why the pipes on right side cracked? As you can see the pipes on left side are in black color.....
  9. EGT sensor is where the crack is on other side manifold, after turbine. Well i will try to fix it myself since my mechanic do the custom exhaust systems. Never heard about this heat wrapping issue...so i will take it out if this helps.
  10. Damn...i am not to happy because i spent ton of money to build new setup and this manifold cost me 1000 pounds with lifetime warranty. They said its strong and one of best on the market. This is a joke or something.....Cant handle 2 months of driving
  11. Heat wrap? yes with Dei heat tape. But i am not sure if i left some spots without the tape. May be this be the issue?
  12. Hello, I have a new setup installed about June 2020 last year. It has about 5000km milage and the manifold crack open. You can see that there is more heat around the crack and its more red?? My EGT was around 850 celcius max when pushing hard on the max boost. I have a new turbine also GTX3071r gen 2 pushing around 450-500hp righ now. My boost is around 1.5bar max. Question1: Does it have anything with bad mapping my car? Question2: May be the issue with hitting the max rpm too often on gears from 1-3 and cutting off my engine at 7500rpm like crazy maniac? Since i got this new turbine i love the sound of this turbo when it hits max rpm so whats what i did a lot.... this crack on the picture looks really bad, its bend out, around 3cm long. Any ideas ? Here is the picture, i used this brand new manifold for arounf 2-3 months from installation. ;/
  13. I will go to my tuner soon so i will ask about this.
  14. OK, Just started normally after installation, did like this with every garrett turbo. Actually my mechanic did it. Never told me about special starting procedure for new turbo.
  15. No first time hear this, what is this about? I will be in my mechanic shop next week so i do it. I am not able to disconnect the oil return line at the bottom of the block by myself and on the top i dont have a space even to move it. Everything is so tight that i would have to disconnect all the turbo installation again. Is there a specific oil flow ratio through the turbine? How i am suppose to calculate this? Like check it on idling how much oil goes through the turbine per soconds ? The oil pressure is way higher at 6000rpms so what this test will tell me on idling?
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