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Tomak

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About Tomak

  • Rank
    Rank: RB20DET

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  • Car(s)
    r33 GTR
  • Real Name
    Tomasz

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  1. I will go to my tuner soon so i will ask about this.
  2. OK, Just started normally after installation, did like this with every garrett turbo. Actually my mechanic did it. Never told me about special starting procedure for new turbo.
  3. No first time hear this, what is this about? I will be in my mechanic shop next week so i do it. I am not able to disconnect the oil return line at the bottom of the block by myself and on the top i dont have a space even to move it. Everything is so tight that i would have to disconnect all the turbo installation again. Is there a specific oil flow ratio through the turbine? How i am suppose to calculate this? Like check it on idling how much oil goes through the turbine per soconds ? The oil pressure is way higher at 6000rpms so what this test will tell me on idling?
  4. All Garrett turbos i owned have something inside the connection hole. Maybe a restrictor but i dont know what size is this. My old GT3076r also has it and turbos from gen1 also. I used double restrictors so far i know, something like this in this topic below My screw had a tiny restrictor that was glued at some point. My mechanic said this is no problem because high oil pressure will make the oil keeps going. I checked oil pressure on the oil line by disconnecting from the turbo and its ok. So i decided to take a drill and make this restrictor much bigger from 1mm to 2.5mm. When i connected back together the metal noises from the turbo went away. Actually the turbo is way more responsive and has better boost with better oil flow. So can i drive like this? I hope i did not killed my turbo by driving some time with this metal grindings. When it got good oiling it runs like new so far. Maybe i saved my second turbo i dont know yet. Also found this in google If there is too much oil in the pan or if the turbocharger in your car is relatively lower, then oil can get through the seals and begin to blow out. ... This happens because the restrictor will starve the turbo of oil, which will cause all of the internals of the turbo (including all of the seals) to wear out. E
  5. Hello, I have a problem with my recent setup. After installing new turbo its failing after 500km of driving, so pretty fast. My last GTX3071r gen2 survieved just 2 months also new one, around 2000km Just driving on highways, no trackdays, racing etc. My actual setup is RB25det with 6boost manifold, vband Garrett turbo housing ar 0.83. First thing I am planning to change is all water and oil hoses connected to the turbo, i have no idea what the other problem my be. I have a question regarding water and oil hoses. There are two water hoses connected to the turbo, should it be connected in the right direction or it does not matter ? Does the water flows through the turbine just in one direction? May be this a problem or not? I mean the first hose comming from the engine block can be connected on right side of the turbo and also on left side? Also the say to use oil restrictors for Garrett turbos so i use 0.9mm screw with the oil restrictor to connect oil hose to the turbo. Is this ok or not? Any ideas? My actual turbo starts metal grinding today so i know its going to fail soon. THe first one started exactly the same, metal grindings comming from the air filer and next day, the turbine rotor was bend and stuck, no boost at all. ;/
  6. Guys i remember now that the only part i have changed in my car before swapping to Rb25 motor was the rear differential. Before killing my RB26DET my rear diff also died and i have replaced it with different one. I am not sure about the source where i bought this rear diff, i got it from some local garage shop that does not have good feedback on forums. It was very cheap too, around 200 USD, this is why i took a risk and bought it. So my car suffers vibration right after the rb25 swap and this rear differential. Can such a vibrations be from this rear differential? When my old differential died i could hear loud howling sound like siren this is why i changed it. But i dont remember such a harsh vibrations, it was 2 years ago. Actually i have my old differential in my house so i can put it back to check if also vibrates. Maybe this way i can at last check the rear differential. The prices of rear diff on ebay are killing me, 1500 pound from UK ;/ If this is the issue what do you suggest? Get the third one used OEM or maybe change the diff internals for new one some brand like Quaife? https://shop.quaife.co.uk/nissan-skyline-gtr-r32-r33-r34-rear-quaife-atb-helical-lsd-differential
  7. Thanks for great ideas. I have cut my rear spoiler already because i found it is to heavy and too big and also cut front lower spoiler lip. It looks like shit now but at last i can go to the supermarket to pick up some patatos. I plan no further modifications between GTR - GTS so far. The front from GTR r34 would be nice by the way, maybe i think about this conversion one day. It will be GTR/GTS NEO/R34/ converted also forget to add its already left hand drive converted for EU roads with cockpit from Maxima 1995. LOL My mechanic was a pro drifter swaping rb25 to S14 and he said there are some advantages over rb26 but i dont remember now what he was talkign about LOL. He is deep inside these engines and run the store with parts to Rb's I also rebuilded my Rb26 once with forged pistons and rods. after spun bearing. It cost me around 8k USD and then i spun the bearing again after 3 years of driving. THis engines has problems with oiling and high revs. So in this case i changed setup to RB25. I spun bearing again in Rb25 after 1 month and got another Rb25 at 2k with labor. Driving like gold now for one year on stock internals. I dont mind spunning bearing again pretty soon LOL
  8. Yeah i was thinking about this for some time now. I think this is the only way to take apart everything and check every part and joint. I am pretty sure its coming from the front, cus i can hear this rubber noise when i brake and accelerate. I hope i will find something finally.
  9. Because Rb25 is 10 times cheaper in my country than RB26 and more accessible and i like to kill the engines, so that was the decision. Rb25 is not bad at all i dont see any differences except lower revs limit 7500.
  10. So you are saying i may need to buy next gearbox? Thats what i was wondering and left this for last part to change eventually, .... LOL, they dont use sirens in my country anymore, they try to race undercover with BMW's so i need to be cereful when i see any BMW on my tail now....;/
  11. Hello, I have an issue with my car R33 GTR after swapping Rb26dett (which i killed) to Rb25det neo. Some vibrations has occured. This swap took about 12 months so i did not run my car for 12 months and i have no idea what issue can be. i have light flywheel dedicated to rb26dett with the clutch NIsmo Super Coppermix Twin Plate that i am using now with rb25det neo I am strugling with big vibrations that starts over 160km/h and go away when car accelerate faster, I can feel smaller vibrations also from 120km/h. From the range 0 -120km/h fell no vibrations almosts at all. At 250km/h can hear weird howling metal noise and i am affraid to accelerate faster. When i stop my car on traffic lights and i start drivin again i can hear one metal knock sometimes and weird rubber grinding noise. Any ideas what it can be? I am strugling with this issue for some time now, changed some parts in my drivetrain already and put a new set of tires but nothing helped. So far i checked all things related to the wheels, gearbox and engine pillows and driveshafts but all changes i have done did not helped so far. Can be this related to light flywheel not being balanced properly with rb25det neo?
  12. 47970-23U00 - where i can buy these abs rings in Australia or Japan? I found only one seller in USA but he wont ship to Europe ;/
  13. Thats for sure, my last tuner said running rich is better, it protect the engine from destroying.....i think i have to visit second tuner anyway soon. I think i start from here. Thanks dude! Never thought about that one...never change mine yet, o_O "Or just close the window." - ...thats impossible for sure when this setup sounds so epic....:P. Just got myself a mask with ffp3 filter, i hope it helps for now. Maybe i try this Venom Catalyzer then one day, thanks guys!
  14. No leaks, its just daily driven car no side or front pipes lol. Little wind from behind with open widnows on traffic lights and the car is full of smell, makes me sick....
  15. Hello, I just build a new setup Rb25det + 6boost + GTX3071r gen2. Car is crazy fast and responsive on stock interenals. Gasoline smell is so nasty makes me puke, cant drive with open windows for long time. What catalyzer can i use for this setup that will last for 1-2 years at last? I dont want to blow up my engine or new turbo.... so if this is a bad idea just tell me and i will drive with the mask on my face LOL. Nengun have in the offer Apexi Catalyzer but i dont know if this one handles powers up to 500hp and will be good for my setup and wont damage anything.....what can you recommend? I just want to reduce the gasoline smell and not blow my engine. I dont care about passing the emissions....etc... Here is the link to the catalyzer i was planning to buy https://www.nengun.com/apexi/super-catalyzer
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