blind_elk

Welcome to last month!

The car was spotted again yesterday by the guy I bought it from, so I called police. I ummed and arrrd about "will I go there?", and after 5 minutes decided I would. I had to unhitch the work trailer, drive a couple of ks through medium traffic and then stood around for 10 minutes before a cop car showed. A police car actually drove past the opposite direction, then returned because it had heard the call go out over police radio. Actual van assigned showed up 5 minutes later. So, something like 20 minutes elapsed between time I reported car's position and cops showing up. I asked one of the cops attending for his station's direct phone, he said waste of time, because it all has to go through 000 - can't just simply call your local shop and ask them to attend. How fn bureaucratic! Unfortunately, the car was gone, but it was at a servo with cameras, so maybe they got the POS on film. The dude in the servo was a waste of space - "didn't see anything". FFS, the car was apparently parked there for an hour! The problem appears to be that, because the car was unregistered, it is not a "stolen car" but "stolen property". And thus it doesn't show up on their list to look out for, despite the fact it has plates which can now id it.

I have had the car up higher before but that was with AFM's and standard computer.Any ideas? I think you answered your own question. But until you tell us exactly what is different between now and previously, it would be difficult to speculate on the causes.

Dude tried to "buck" me off by acelerating and braking hard. I took the opportunity on one of these to get off - fortunately no injuries, just massive doses of adrenalin flowing, and the heart pumping a million. I'm surprised not a single police car with all this "number plate recognition" stuff never spotted it during the three weeks this POS has been driving it around. If I happen to see it parked somewhere again, I will be trying something different, like stealing the distributor lead, or maybe deflating a couple of tyres.

Boy, did I do something REALLY STUPID today! Long story short, found the car at Werribee Plaza, cops called, dude about to drive off, cops not on scene. What do I do? Jump on the bull bar for a ride through the undercover car park! Won't be doing that again. Anyway, dude is an islander POS, car has had plates affixed - front = XNZ 905, rear = NEC 677 (w/LPG sticker). If you spot it, call police. My worst fear is that now he has been sprung, the car will be dumped and torched.

KYB aren't a bad shock absorber. The problem might be getting a set for a Stagea. According to their online catalogue (kyb.com.au), they don't make any for the Stagea - closest might be for a 33 GTSt.

Have you checked the fuse?

Try getting the injectors cleaned.

I think .26mm plug gap is WAAAAYYYY to small. Your engine should be capable of using near stock gap of 1.1mm. Maybe 1mm should be the least you would need. Some timing lights give a reading double the actual timing. The safest way to get a proper timing is to use an old spark plug lead inserted between #1 coil and #1 spark plug, then set the timing "old school". And was the ecu flashed on a dyno, or is it something someone says worked in another car?

The TPS has 2 components - a SENSOR and a SWITCH. The switch tells the ECU that the throttle is closed, and it is for situations like when the throttle closes during (manual) gear changes. If the switch is not set correctly, then it can cause the ECU to maintain a high idle speed because it thinks the throttle is open. Resistance between pins 1 & 2 on the TPS should be 0 ohms at "throttle closed".

How can you be certain that the car has never been crashed? Have you owned it from new?

Last night, some POS stole an unregistered Ford Courier from my driveway in Tarneit. Vehicle is a white 4-door ute, with bullbar and sunroof. If you spot it, please advised Wyndham North police station. (although I won't be holding my breath for its return) TIA.

Don't expect any size sway bar would have stopped that happening. Get the "red mist" under control first, then get the car under control.

Frankly, if its for the street, why on earth do you need 400hp?

What happens if you swap wheels L<->R? F<->R?

I'm theorising that you have warped the head, although I could be wrong. I'm predicting that the lowest compression was in #3/#4. How much water was in the radiator when you finally got it home? When you did the initial coolant change, did you make sure the cooling system was full? via the system bleed valve? If it is a warped head, you should replace it - DO NOT plane it flat.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but you can't have a waste spark ignition on a stock ECU. The ECU fires the spark, and it fires them one at a time, not in pairs.

I think you are asking where to get a 4.1 ratio for a gtst - yes? GT-R = 4.111:1 Stagea = 4.083:1 All the Skyline / Stagea range use the "R200" differential. The whole differential unit will bolt into your GTSt, although I think if you use the Stagea gears, transfer the crown wheel and pinion to your current diff centre (I understand Stageas run an open - non-LSD - diff centre). Either way, you might need to change the speedo drive gear in the gearbox - a GT-R one swaps straight in.

Try Joe @ Azzco on Old Geelong Rd, Hoppers. (While you're waiting, you (and your GF) could browse Sexyland!)

Turns out I'm a panic merchant. Got a man around who cleared the plastic shopping bags away from the back of the frig compartment - all fixed.

Just for Ben: What ECU is being used? Factory? Chipped? Aftermarket? What fuel pump? What is the fuel pressure? And the O2 sensor will have absolutely minimal EFFECT on fuel consumption in city, ie stop / start, driving. The O2 sensor only contributes when in closed loop, ie constant throttle, driving.

So what exactly did you do to convert to efi? ECU? Fuel pump? Fuel pressure? Does it seem to drive any differently? (highly unlikely the O2 sensor will have ANY effect, especially if you are in a city.)

Older R32 ignitors are prone to cause problems when they get hot. If you find the problem goes away after the engine has had a chance to cool a bit, then that will tend to confirm the ignitor as the culprit.

Yes (actually GTS4). Tip - persistence. good skills at balancing the diff on a hydraulic jack.

Never had a car with thermo that couldn't idle when the thermo cut in - factory ECU or aftermarket ECU, or carbs.