Unclerico

Ive been searching for anyone that makes a new mil spec style harness for the 260RS. I have read that the R33 GTR harness is different and will not work on the 260RS. Can anyone confirm this or have any leads on a new harness?

So yes it is a GTE and it is just a base model Skyline with the same sliding brakes as all the other base model NA vehicles. The R32 GTR brakes that I installed are the standard GTR non Brembo brakes. The brakes that I installed were a used set that came directly off of another perfectly running GTR that actually did stop when stepping on the pedal. So no the pistons are not seized or anything funny going on like that. And ok I may have over exaggerated a tad when I said I couldnt stop in an emergency. Was simply just trying to get my point across. Dont beat me down. lol As for the booster, yes it very well could be the issue. Im not saying it isnt but the stock brakes with the same booster and master worked perfectly fine just hours earlier before I did the swap. So that would just make me think it is not a brake boster issue. However I think Im going to change it out anyway just to check. I do realize that the rear brakes do not slow the car anywhere near the way the fronts do. I know this is sort of a "safety system", if you will, from the factory so people dont lock up the rear brakes first and spin out. However after 2 months of driving on fresh rotors it should not still have cross hatches from being turned. Those cross hatches should be gone within a day or two. I doubt there is but its almost as if there is some kind of restrictor going to my rear brakes somewhere. And since my pedal is so stiff its almost telling me to go back to a smaler master. I only went bigger in the first place because I figured I should at least start with the size that these calipers came with. I bought a BM-50 for the Nissan Pathfinder. As it is the 3 port 1" master that works for RHD cars and I think its the only BMC that is readily available in the states. I read that this master is a "step bore master". For one I dont know if its true and if it is true would that cause this issue that Im having?

So I have a daily driven 89 Skyline GTE (no ABS) that I swapped to 5 lug hubs and R32 GTR brakes. Im using freshly turned OEM rotors, new Hawk ceramic pads and steel braid lines. At first I just used the stock GTE booster and master cylinder. After I fully bled the system and took it out to bed the brakes I could tell before I even got out of the garage that something was not right. The pedal pressure was stiffer than it should be and the car was just not slowing as much as it should. So I went out and bed the brakes anyway hoping that it would "come to life" if I just drove it a while. After about a month of driving the car this way I noticed that the rear rotors looked like they were still brand new. I could clearly see the cross hatching from being turned, its as if the rear pads are not clamping onto the rear rotor. When I step on the pedal the car just does not slow like it should be, my stock GTE brakes felt way better than these GTR brakes. So I thought maybe the master cylinder is bad? So I bought a brand new bigger 1" master, swapped it out and bled the entire system again. I got the EXACT SAME FEEL!!! Stiff pedal and the car just does not stop the way it should. If there is an emergency situation where I would need to slam on my brakes they will just not be there for me. Im totally lost on what it could be and I would really love some useful information and not your typical response of "bleed your brakes again". Ive been a race mechanic/fabricator for the past 15 years and know how to bleed a cars brake system. Ive tried every different sequence that Ive found online. Ive tried using a pneumatic bleeder and hand bleeding, nothing seems to change the stiff pedal and weak braking power. Please help.

Ive been doing some research on which cams would be the best choice for my situation but not having much luck finding people with the same combo as me. I live in California so Im limited to 91 octane for fuel which means around 18-19 psi. The RB26 will be stock pistons and rods with a T3 divided GTX3682R. Yes I realize going back to twins would be better for response but thats not really an option for me at this point. Ive read a lot of opinions on the Tomei poncams and it seems like its split 50/50. Half the people say they are a waste of money because you dont get enough gains to make it worth the cost and other people say the exact opposite. Ive also read that the stock cams (with adjustable cam gears) are one of the best options for response simply because they are free. lol I really dont care much about peak power if it means losing bottom end, so thats not even a concern its all about the bottom end for me Again I know it sounds contradicting saying that I want bottom end but Im running single turbo but its part of the deal that im working with. Its out of my control. So Tomei poncams or stock? Or anything else that you guys would recommend?

OMG this whole time I thought the a/r on the maps was exhaust housing a/r. Damn I wish we had more e85 pumps here. lol

Well unfortunately I can only look at the maps that Garrett provide. And for the gt3076 they only use a .60 and the gtx3076 they only use a .70. Which I dont think I would use either of those rears. And for the 3582 they only show a .70 as well. Is there a general rule of thumb to calculate using a different a/r?

Thanks for the great info. What exactly does it need more boost for? Are you saying it takes more boost to make the same response and max power than on a GT? And not that I dont believe you, Im sure your way more qualified than I am on this subject. It just seems backwards to buy a GT over the GTX haha. All you hear about these days are how good the GTX's are.

You said the GT3582 will be laggy. Not exactly sure which configuration you were talking about. How would a T3 divided with .82 a/r be in your opinion?

OK guys I dont have much experience with RB26 being from the states so Im hoping my English speaking cousins from down under might be able to help me out. lol Im coming from a single turbo 2J(GTX3582R) car over to my R32 Skyline. Ive been doing my research on turbo selection and Its hard to decifer the BS("I think" or "it should be") from the facts. Also a lot of different factors to consider will change the outcome. After watching Motive's Single vs Twin video Ive pretty much decided on single. I like single turbo setups and working on the twins just sucks! My choices are between GTX3076R or the GTX3582R. Then we got t3 or t4 and divided or undivided. Then to add even more options we have the A/R. Thats 18 different combinations to choose from!!! GTX3076R T3 GTX3076R T4 .63 Undivided only .63 Undivided only .78 Undivided & Divided .82 Undivided only 1.06 Undivided & Divided 1.06 Undivided only GTX3582R T3 GTX3582R T4 .78 T3 Undivided & Divided .63 Undivided only .82 T3 Undivided & Divided .82 Undivided only 1.06 T3 Undivided & Divided 1.06 Undivided & Divided I realize the GTX3076R is smaller than what most would consider. But I used a GTX3582R 1.06 Divided T4 on my 2JZ and though the lag wasnt bad I would like my Skyline to be a little more responsive. So Im thinking a higher flowing(t4 big a/r) 3076 or lower flowing(t3 low a/r) 3582 might be the way to go?? If that makes any sense. But keep in mind I dont want to much back pressure and extra stress on the engine. I will be using 91 octane pump gas. At around 20ish psi. I would like to run higher but California pump gas is terrible. And Im hoping to get around 330kw-370kw to the wheels. I will never be using race gas or E85, so I will probably never see anything over 20-22psi. I think I should cross off all the 3076 T3 turbos along with the 3582 T4 turbos. Is that a good place to start?

So I have a V160 with about 8000 miles on it and Im just curious if anyone has used the center section of a V160 with a R34 bellhousing and input shaft to use in a rear wheel drive configuration. If its too difficult or too hard to find the R34 parts I might just sell the V160 and use the cash to put into my R32.