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Steve85 last won the day on July 25 2019

Steve85 had the most liked content!

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About Steve85

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    Rank: RB25DET

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    Push bike, 530i Wagon, R33 GTR
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  1. Some of these are old, but should get you started; Here's my search in case these are no good. Best of luck! https://www.sau.com.au/forums/search/?q=RB20 Turbo Conversion&fromCSE=1
  2. I have 265s all round on my 10.5 rims. They're a small as I would dare to run, I will need to do some guard work to get bigger tires to clear in the front end. They are ever so slightly stretched (not like stupid, but just enough that you might notice by looking at the wheels when they're off the car). My plan was always to upgrade sizes when I used the first set of tires. It's not looking like I will ever get that far... 😮
  3. Welcome! Good to have more people here! Would love to see some pictures if you have any!
  4. You will need to create a post on GTR registry to add your picture. Head over to the forum, create a post with your car and the picture you want it to be. Add the topic as follows; VIN | MODEL | TYPE | No (if applicable). BCNR33-023798 R33 GTR LM Limited #161
  5. For me, it would depend on condition at these kms. 100+ kms on the clock and you know you aren't buying a low km car. At that point you should be looking at condition more than anything else. You could get a check, but i'm not sure if it would be worth it. If it were me, i'd rather spend the money on a decent mechanical inspection by a Skyline expert (or at least someone familiar with them). Regarding your concern around re-sale value, at these price points, I would expect these to hold their value over the next 10 years. However, I would not expect this to appreciate. If you were super keen on buying something that will appreciate, I would suggest looking at a stock, low kms GTT or equivalent.
  6. No problemos. I live in Melbourne and bought a car from Perth (Galvsport) and from Sydney (CRD). To be super clear, I did an insane amount of homework on both cars (in terms of modifications for the LM and the history of the Silver GTR), to the point where i knew the background of both better or as well as the sellers. Once I was happy with the cars inspections, I was planning to go and see them both and buy in person. Unfortunately, my life dictated otherwise. For the LM, I flew to a mine-site for 4 weeks straight and for the KR4 GTR, I purchased it around xmas, so my availability and that of the seller was not compatible. For the LM, I made the purchase, once the car was stored at Glavsport. That way, I owned the car, and it was in a workshop I trusted until it was shipped over by Galvsport. For the KR4, I did it differently, I put down a deposit, then arranged my own transport (Allens Car Carriers I think, i can dig it out if you need it), once I had it all booked in ready to go. I paid the day before at 4pm in full. Car carrier showed up and took the car at 10am the next day. They were great and the driver inspected the car before he took it. I had provided him with the CRD inspection report, so he knew it should be in perfect condition. For the KR4 I was a little worried, i'd have to call in all my favours from my Sydney friends or fly up at short notice if things went south, but nothing did and it's all history now. My advice would be if you can't be there, ensure you get a reputable inspection and go for the workshop storage option, the stress of buying a car privately unseen for big money was excruciating and could easily have seen me get ripped off.
  7. @kye32gtst those rims appear to be a generic BBS LM knockoff. You should be able to find what you need by searching for BBS LM. @maddy400r33 These are Tommy Kaira Pro R rims. I have no idea how rare these are though. You might need to do some checking on Yahoo Japan.
  8. Depending on the model, you would want it to go to a Skyline specialist shop (within reason). I have had bought both my cars from interstate. Both cars were inspected by reputable workshops (Galvsport & CRD). If you're at the other end of the spectrum (clapped out R31 for $500), you could probably just go for a normal NRMA/RAC test. I'm sorry i don't have any specific workshops for you, but you can try these threads, https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/54061-best-adelaide-skyline-workshops/ https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/431425-reputable-workshop-in-adelaide/ Alternately here is the search. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/search/?q=Adelaide Workshop&fromCSE=1 Most of these are probably pretty old, so make sure you check google and facebook reviews of places. Good luck.
  9. Here's the full list of my car (a year or so ago at least). Bear in mind that technology has come a long way since this was put together and I wouldn't put it together exactly the same way if I were doing it again. But this should give you some idea of an "old school" build. If nothing else, most of head will be of use to you. Hope you find this helpful. GTR LM Limited Parts Installed.pdf
  10. Ok, so when I said more than 15k I still had the old US to AUD conversion of 1:2 in my head. @nickestevez, I have receipts for around 35k AU of engine parts, plus another 15k AUD of other mods (drivetrain etc). What I don't have is receipts for the workshop costs. I imagine it wasn't cheap. (Keep in mind this was many years ago, before GTR tax took off into it's crazy territory it's in now). If you're committed to the N1 block, grab yourself; A decent oil pump Forged internals Single turbo Up-rated fuel system and coils to match Drop in cams A new ECU. Then get ready to destroy 3rd gear, over and over! Edit: Forgot upgraded sump and baffles. You'll need them too.
  11. As already stated, above, N1 blocks are not as special as was originally believed (that hurts!). There is almost zero difference between an N1 block and a standard RB26 block. It comes down to the individual blocks being compared. If you're going full crazy on this build you may want to consider an RB30 block, if you haven't already that is. Regarding sleeving your block, that would be interesting for sure and I'd be well keen to see the results, but would likely eat your entire budget (ok hyperbole, but still not worth the effort) for no effect. You don't need to upgrade the cams, but if you do you can gain top end power for not much outlay and increase in costs. I run 272, 9.1s and I would consider them larger than necessary, but I know of people running less power, with higher lift and duration cams just because they like them. It's really up to you. And oil control is the big one, really do your research on oil pumps and oil control. If this goes wrong, it all goes wrong. There's heaps of info here and elsewhere online, hit that search button and get into it! Here's my car being built, it cost the last owner more than 15k (US) but no corners were cut.
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