Jump to content
SAU Community

Just Put A K&n Pod On My R33

faz

By faz,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Links Veteran

Links

Posted
Posted

Feeding colder air would be a better proposition.. I find it hard to believe that an open pod in the engine bay will get colder air than from the stock snorkel..

It is around 1% for every 4 degrees I believe.. It would be better to try and find a cold source of air e.g. if you have a front mount, feed air from where the Side mount used to be.. or use something such as Maxxs where it sucks using the stock snorkel..

I don't understand how having a pod behind a headlight is going to get cold air fed to it.. That's my thoughts anyway..

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

You are all wrong.

Mad082 is correct.

Un shielded pod is better..

I might just ring up MINES factory and let them know that they should quickly bolt up a $40 MONZA pod filter to their R34 gtr which uses a stock air box with after market duct and filter at the moment.

Oh and get rid of the duct as it’s not necessary with the pod there.

This will give them more power and possibly a WHOLE second off their time at the time attack trials they do.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

lol at the mines GTR and time attack trials. :wave:

Hardly related to street use/speeds + Its making up around 600bhp, clearly the stock air box isn't going to cut it at those power levels. :(

So stock airbox for sensible street power levels as I stated in a previous post.

Links Veteran

Links

Posted
Posted

well.. gee.. lets all go get carried away here.. lol..

I don't see how comparing a mines GT-R to street cars is really the best example.. how many times do you see the mines GT-R stuck in bumper to bumper traffic???..

Anyways.. Top Gear is on.. so i'm going to watch that!!..

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted
well.. gee.. lets all go get carried away here.. lol..

I don't see how comparing a mines GT-R to street cars is really the best example.. how many times do you see the mines GT-R stuck in bumper to bumper traffic???..

Anyways.. Top Gear is on.. so i'm going to watch that!!..

I think you missed my point.

I made the reference to the mines gtr to show that even a car with around 600hp was still using a stock GTR airbox with their own enlarged intake snorkel.

This MAD082 guy is blabbering that a pod…. No an un-shielded pod is better than a pod filter in a box or partition which is better than a panel filter in the stock air box.

His reasoning is that it can suck in more air.. wether it’s hot or not does not matter cause it’s more air and the intercooler will fix the temp issue.

BULLSH*T

The fact is, lower temps means more power.

Before the cooler, after cooler, in the plenum.. whatever.

Cooler means more power is capable.

People on here have over 250rwkw in GTST’s or GTT’s with stock air box and intake snorkel and rubber duct from afm to turbo.

People have close to 300rwkw in gtr’s with stock air box and intake and rubber duct from afms to turbos.

I see no reason to replace the stock Nissan skyline air box unless you have over those sorts of rough figures.

And even if you do, the mines GTR factory air box MODDED with new CAI snorkel allowing enough air flow for 600hp is good enough, I’m sure you can do the same for your car.

R32 gtst’s have the duct in the bottom half, then the filter above it, and then the afm pipe on top of that.

Once you get a fmic, get some 3 inch PVC pipe and some bends, duct it from the front bar (in the duct where the stock smic opening is, drill a 3 inch hole under your factory air box and duct it up.

You will never run out of fresh cold air in your air box.

R33 gtst’s may have a little more difficulty as they have the intake on the top of the box, then the filter then the afm pipe under that.

So you would have to design another CAI to maybe pipe in to the other side of the air box (left side has factory snorkel).

I just think that a pod filter is not required for most people.

You want fully sick induction sound bro?, this post is not for you.

You want the performance without the look at me noise and hassles from cops for being illegal?, then put a hi flow panel filter in your stock box and maybe work out a new CAI to it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...