Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah I can, but a few guys can get really good prices on RE540's, so wait to see who else responds.

True the 4WD helps at the plex, but they aren't desinged for drag racing, but one of the best for dry road and track, ask Ken what there like in the wet.

See'ya:burnout:

the 540's are a good compound. Get them in a taller profile for better sidewall flex and I'm sure they will prove to be an excellent choice for the drags.

35 profile is a little low 50/55's are better. also if you can match the rim width to tyre width thats the way to go for retaining some good handling (on that topic I'm sure gtrken is the guy to chat to).

Guest KILLER-T

Hi ya Brett if you are buyin the re540s for the drags then dont bother the side walls are way to hard to get any advantage from them on the 1/4 mile but for a track tyre they would be great.I cant tell you what they are like in the wet but on a dry road the are the best thing i have used.The only thing i dont like about them is the amount of road noise they make

but thats for drags, and you dont drive to work in 1/4 mile stretches. id go for an all-round tyre which performs on the street, if your keen on making good times at kwinana get a couple of stock rims with higher profile tyres

plus being 4WD you dont have to worry as much as us RWD guys cos traction is aided by atesa

Originally posted by EVL R33

Anybody using these tyres???  Comments on wear rates and performance in both wet and dry???

Oh,  anyone using Pirrelli PZero NERO's??  Comments??

Cheers

Brett

Its all i use now days on my car, using them for normal street punting feel a lot safer due to the extra grip..

anyway, as a track tyre, there fantastic, for the drags as everyone has pointed out, they arn't so flash, but if your serious about the drags, buy slicks, simple..

As for wear, how long is a piece of string, i usually get around 6 months a set, street driving and a pile of events, for normal street driving you'd probally get 20 thousand out of them, but it depends on how you treat them, and thew downside to street driving is with the heat cycles they get hard, my last set after there 6 month tour of duty where tops for drifting a 4wd, not so hot for grip when i wanted it..

So there not that good a daily if you want to hammer them at the same time..

usually a better idea to keep them on a second set of rims, and swap them over when you need them..

Originally posted by adam 32

but thats for drags, and you dont drive to work in 1/4 mile stretches. id go for an all-round tyre which performs on the street, if your keen on making good times at kwinana get a couple of stock rims with higher profile tyres

plus being 4WD you dont have to worry as much as us RWD guys cos traction is aided by atesa

The tyres I use at the drags are the ones I drive home on and do 35,000+kms on a year.

50 even 60 profile tyres are fine for going around corners on a street car. They offer even better ride comfort, something that is often needed when you have concrete coil overs.

There is bugger all radial roll on a good set of tyres like the re540s even at this profile.My old toyo proxes were 55's as well and had no radial roll at all.

To combat the hardening of the tyres from street use over time you can occasionally apply some AZNU tyre compound on race days (Ozrace stuff) get it from A1 performance I think.

so a 50-60 profile tyre is going to have enough sidewall stiffness when fully inflated that you can push hard through corners on the street and have decent handling (forget comfort) yet when de-pressurised can provide enough sidewall flex to launch well at the drags? seems a little too good to be true

instead of getting a tyre which will do both jobs in a mediocre fashion, if youre really that concerned with 1/4 times get a second pair of tyres. also as i mentioned before sidewall flex isnt as big a concern for 4WD cars compared to 2WD. i understand the sme principles of squatting down to gain max traction apply but less so with the attessa system in place.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...