Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Selling my R32 to make way for my next car.

the car has damper adjustable suspension fitted. Also have GTR front bar. front mount intercooler with custom stainless pipe work . Windows are tinted it's called 20% extra it's pretty dark but not 5%. Comes with (QLD) JAP32 number plates

$9000 ono

pm me if your interested or sms me on 0424623426 sms me first and say that your interested in the car before you call or i prolly won't answer.

ps. scroll down to the bottom of the page for more pictures car has been painted since ignore the close ups of the paint work. here are the new pics painted and gtr bar fitted.

post-23715-1168059154.jpg

post-23715-1168059235.jpg

post-23715-1168059313.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129232-sold/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Need to post some Answers mate

Killometer's: ?

Manual or Automatic transmission: ?

Engine Type: RB20DET?

Complianced: ?

Road Worth Certificate: ?

Registration: ?

Reason to sell: ?

Location: ?

Crash History: ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129232-sold/#findComment-2625346
Share on other sites

as you can see in the picture it has personlised plates on it so it's been complied and registered. it's 5 speed manual. RB20DET with custom stainless pipe work for the fmic. i'm on the gold coast. selling becasue i am buying an R34 would like to keep this car too but can't afford to. drives smooth. no crashes as far as i can tell. has about 110 000km's.

Edited by jap32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129232-sold/#findComment-2630458
Share on other sites

Hmm, mate,i've added your car to what im interested in, i've just gotta sell me car, and i'd be on my way. lol.

If you know anyone :)http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=141268

Edited by MATTYBE
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129232-sold/#findComment-2631112
Share on other sites

where about are you located im going to aska friend of mine to go and have a look for me, i will bve in contact with you soon, 6500 with kit fitted and sprayed? ill talk to you about it over the phone any way just need a location for the moment so i can suss out someone to go and have a look for me.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129232-sold/#findComment-2697391
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

i have just spent $1000 on paint work and fitted the gtr front bar so i'm asking $9000 ono post pics today. scroll to top of page for latest pictures

Edited by jap32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129232-sold/#findComment-2798048
Share on other sites

hey mate, so all the whole body has been gone over n removed those rust spots? was the whole body rubbed back n sprayed or just a patch up job? also that looks like a hell of alot of blow-by coming out !! have you had compression test n that done?

thanks

Edited by 2gceffy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129232-sold/#findComment-2813085
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...