Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nah dude, where it is and the amount being used will just deflect heat from the outside of the partition. Cos i am only doing a partition not a box... good news aswell, its finished and fitted and it turned out perfect so far. ALl came together way better than expected thankfully, as it was a first off attemtp.

I used a piece of cardboard to make a template wall which i taped in place to where the wall will be made, then lined the whole area with garbage bags, then layed around a 2mm thick layer of fibreglass which moulded to the shape of the cooler piping and all surrounding edges. Just gotta get me so neoprene to seal the top edge and a gap down the bottom after i install the cold air feeds but so far its lookn good. I'll try n get mum to bring home the digital camera tomorrow from work to post up some pics.

Just removed the partition again to finish it up, just been down to clark rubber and got me some neoprene hollow tubing which i sliced down the center and fitted to the top edge of the partition to create a good seal against the bonnet. I have also sprayed the inner side of it in black paint, as black is good for soaking up unwanted heat (hence why factory cooler piping and good coolers are painted black). Once this is dry i will wholesaw cut into the inner panel between partition and 1/4 panel in order to run cold air feeds into the partition from same position the factory cooler cold air pickup is located, as the air down low at the front bar is the coldest possible point to obtain air coming up off the ground. Once its all done i am hoping to obtain a heat probe from somewhere to borrow to meausre how low the temp. drop is at the air filter. EVen thinking about having a small Evo style vent fitted above the filter in the bonnet to force cold air into the region. Once thing i'm not sure i fi mentioned but all u surfers would probably know, certain resin's when in a cold environment actually harden and hold in the cold eg. surfboards for strength, this was one of the main reasons i decided to use fibreglass in the first place, and i tested it when i removed it from the liner yesterday by puting cold water on one side of it and puting my hand on the other and the cold litterally soaks through the fibreglass and can be felt almsot the same temp on the opposite side to the water, this is good in that once cold, it stays cold well and with the heat deflecting liner i covered on the other side it deflects heat one way and keeps cold in on the other :P;)

If anyone wants any info at all on what i have done and researched, let me know i'll try and help as much asi can, i should have foto's up asap so ay can see it properly... and also for those who are wondering it has cost me about $40 to make the entire thing, for a moulded fibreglass partition... If ya thinking about doing it but iant sure let me know and i can even give ya hand if its possible :)

No there is the correct size gap left already for it and the piping is there just not visible in the foto. It fits between the headlight and cooler piping then runs down to the front bar, having the piping there meant, not wholesawing like i thought and a snug fit so no hot air leaks, and furthermoremakes sure the air doesn't become warm cos it never reaches the top of encloses area where hot air will sit.

Dude only thin gwith cutting wholes is u lose torsional strength in the panel. U might think i am crazy saying this when the whole is maybe 3" wide and on a panel that seems to do nothing, but tests have been done after wholesawing panels for weight reduction and the srength loss is huge!! Just be careful where u cut the holes from.

P.s. Still been looking round at other partitions people have done and one's that are being sold for around the $150 price such as the UAS one, and to tell ya the truth the simpler the better. The UAS one is just simply on sheet of neoprene cut to fit perfectly as a partition, would be around the $10-15 price to constrcut and i have a top view photo of an R33 one from the net which i am currently working on in scale to create an exact replica of it. Once its done i'll post it on here and EVERYONE can have cheap good working partitions :).

Hey _turtle_ is all finished, i have run the cold air feeds and made an alloy funnel which also feeds cold air form the stock ram tube thingy.l Works great, a lot smoother rev's, especially last night was nice and cold at 3am and was alot better. I wanna try n chuck it on the dyno with and without the partition in soon and check the results.

  • 2 weeks later...

A partition type sounds pretty good, (to block the heat coming from the engine/turbo) but i don't see why some people are making closed boxes with a opening going down near the front bar area. Isnt the idea of a pod filter to be able to suck air from 360 degrees around it rather than through say a 3inch pipe?

Also in rain isnt water going to be flying up into your custom pipe being so low to the ground. One more thing, who says the air down low is colder, have you tried walking bare feet on the road on a warm summer day? It gets farken hot and that makes the first few inches or so of air near there pretty warm too. Im not here to knock your ideas but there seems to be a few faults in the common beliefs. I am mainly researching so far so i can make up my own partition set up, as i have a unifilter trumpet style intake which is pretty damn big. Pick away at my thoughts here as i'm open to everyones theories.

the heat still gets through the partition, with the closed box u ensure that it isn't sucking any hot air at all.

3" pipe is sufficient enought to bring in cold air to the filter. instead of leaving it exposed to the engine heat and sucking that in from all directions.

at the end of the day i guess the air coming in from piping is colder than heat from the engine.

dunno about the rain, depends how big the puddle is i guess and how low ur intake is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...