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I've been communicating closely with Duane for the past 6 months dealing with our products (APS) and he's not only a great guy, but does some good work. His history shows why. The Doveton shop has only been trading for just over a month, but they do have the latest Dynodynamics 4WD dyno with the new fibre optic technology, so they definitely have the tools. I'm not very familiar with 'Benny' although i have heard lots of storys good/bad, i have nothing buy high praise for Duane and his work which i have seen up front. Should see some great stuff outa there very soon

G'day all, APS Engineering, a Melbourne based worldwide force in performance aftermarket parts engineering/manufacturing is seeking an experienced web developer to service our ever changing website on a full-time bassis. Applicants with extensive web knowledge and proven history/degree's need only apply. Experience in Adobe GoLive and Dreamweaver, and excellent ability in Photoshop work is absolutely essential. APS thrives on employee's with a passion for the performance cars, and this will be a must for the sucessful applicant. If you have the desired experience, and a strong passion to work amongst the performance engineering scene at the forefront of aftermarket performance, then you can contact me directly via email at [email protected] James APS Engineering

Whats the chances they have dicsonnected the battery or jump started it during that time frame?? May have affected the PFC.

Always cracks me up when i hear these kinda responses. No offence meant, but why would he spend so much time and money on it to pull it apart again and sell it off. Would cost more than he'd make. Good luck with it dude, neat car.

Are you running a BOV at all?? If so what is the spring tension setting on that? If it hasn't been adjusted, then its obvious that 0.9 is its limit at the moment and is opening in the same manner a wastegate does, and hence the 'vaccum leak' people have suggested. Its similar to how the 'bypass-valves' work on an indy car by venting intake pressure as a means to control pressure. Sounds silly, but it hasn't been mentioned and its an obvious stand out offender in many situations and is often overlooked.

Good to hear, nothing worse than a shonky deal.

Rip off the intake pipe and hot pipes from ya turbo and free up the front inlet snout, so ya can undo that also to allow access to the compressor wheel... grab hold of the center and see if it moves forward/backward... it should have a minute amount of up and down, but forward and backward and you can safely say its ready to or is farked out. The forward/backward slack can allow the turbine to pull forward when making boost in a similar style to a propellor causes forward motion, and contacts the compressor housing which has obvious results. Get onto it asap to check for any shaftplay cos it can lead to more drama's. I dunno why you'd be getting sparks out the exhaust tho i'd be strapped to work out what would cause sparks exiting the exist? Unless it was the fibreglass packing in the mufflers breaking down and burning up ?

Sounds like theirs a group getting round, theres been a few egging's this passed week.

Moreover, check that the base timing was set correctly and not to retarded. If you don't disconnect the TPS while car is idleing, and then rev it passed 2k rpm 3 times with it disconnect, the ECU wont go into 'set timing' mode and you wont have the right timing. When doing it to, don't use the timing loop its useless, you need to pull out coil pack number 1 and run a spark lead from the spark plug up into the coil pack and connect the timing sensor to the lead to get an accurate reading.

Check the knock sensor... its a common overlooked issue. Run an ECU diagnostics check... if it throws a code 34 then its farked. I've fixed a view after people have had the same problem you stated, and have tried changing everything like you did. If the sensor is rooted, it tells the ECU its constantly knocking and will retard your timing when below 4K as the sensor only works until 4k, then it will take off like it should after 4k rpm. Make sure you do the ECU test correctly as if you don't you may accidently reset it before you do the test and it wont throw the code if you do that, and you will think its fine. Nissansilvia has a articles section on how to do an ECU check.

lol The bent fitting on the right is 90 degree, and the left is straight fitting.

hey dude, the core itself with male fittings to take alluminium speed fittings is $250+postage. I need to know asap, i am in process of negotiating the last 2 as we speak!!

Bump... couple left.

Yes, i will be able to put you onto my supplier directly. But the price is dependant on buying one at a time so i can't tell you the exact figure, it would be somewhere around $90-100 as i was buying multiples it was a lot cheaper.

At this point in time the remaining 4 on offer wont be with a thermostat, as there is none left at the suppliers in australia, and they aren't in their next shipment from the US. They will be about 2 months away i'm guessing.

Furthermore, you wont find these anywhere else or after this unless someone sell's theres they have purchased off me, cos there is none! Hence why i said i put them together.

Yes buddy it i am the same person, Surreal wasn't available as a user name on here when i signed a few years ago and i drove my R33... WHO TOOK IT!! ha ha Check your post in the general section buddy.

Hi guys, i am Surreal off ns.com... The thermostat just regulates the oil flow through the cooling system. Its not a monitoring device, like a gauge. As for braided line, there is a lot of misconceptions here. Almost all high pressure oil hose is rated at 40bar+ which is extremly high pressure, of the likes that will not be seen in a car. Braided line, was made to prevent the minute risk of a line letting go due to whatever faults may cause it, and more over braided line allows the line to be physically bolted to the fitting it is connected to, be it either a speed fitting or a banjo bolt etc. But the hose inside the braid is exactly the same as normal high pressure hose, its just made to suit the particular side braide you need, i.e. 1/2" in this case. However you must remember braided line is not ADR compliant as it will rub through just about anything it touches, quite litterally. And yes it is a roadworthy affected item, which means possible canaries, where as rubber does not. This kit can be adapted to take braided lines if you so wish, but its not cheap, thats why i can offer you this kit at the price it is, as normally with braided line it would be roughly the same price as a Trust or HKS kit, as the quality is the same. But i chose not to sell a non ADR approved item for obvious reasons. If you need any info jus tPM me again. Furthermore, in comparison to the kits that are available at the moment from asia, that incude the braided line and what not lack a lot in quality. The core is very average, and the lines look more like high pressure water line than they do oil lines. But its up to you, i've had the chance to look at them in person and wasn't impressed at all, especially considering i am offering Jap quality at the same price as asian generic :S But thats why i chose to do it, to give people the opportunity at 10 one off buy's that wont come around again.

They will definately fit 95% of thread types buddy. The relocation kit comes with the nexcessary thread's to suit all engines. We have tried them on SR both s13 and s15, and RB should be no exception.

Hi guys, Sorry guys, all are sold!

Looking good dude... is that a sequential gearbox set up?

I seen this car for the first time about 3 years ago at Showoff at the show grounds in meblourne, and it was at the time just a nice street'a, making around 190rwkw's, with basic mod's from what i can remember, it was used as one of their promotional cars and hence was stickered up, along with a rexy. I then saw it again about a year later at autosalon, and it had a bit more done to it, and seen it at another autosalon and around the place, also at Calder at a drift event, and it loosk nice now. Good luck with it.

Hey people, Certain changes in ambitions and career choice have now taken over my life, and need to get rid of my car, as its been garaged for about 6 months now as it was a project toy, only being started every week jus to let it run and only drive on christmas eve to relo's house's to give it a quick run. To save posting up a heap of stuff and slowing the site down with pics, the add and pics can be seen at: http://www.carpoint.ninemsn.com.au/Desktop...lias=carpointau Genuine reason for sale, the car is a very rare find with whats on it both parts/factory options, in that kind of condition aswell as the km's. Compared to the rest of the current silvia market it definately stands out. I've had a few interested parties that havn't got back to me bout it so please only genuine buyers. And no the car isn't a drifter... condition will prove it, sick of people thinking it is jus cos its an s13... not all of us enjoy thrashing our toys! Quick rundown on parts which are all brand new: Trust R-Spl HG cooler, A`Pexi N1 exhaust, Tomei shifter, Bosch pump, Vertex/Bomex kit, 18's etc. Check the link for full rundown and heaps of pics. Price $16,500. 0402 488 879, in vic. *Really need to sell now, i recieved all my course information yesterday for uni and i really need to get all the fee's under control and i can't do that till i sell my car...!!

Its off anr R33 GTR i believe.

Hey peoples, Changed the cooler set up on my mates R34 GTT yesterday to a new ARC cooler, so we now have a GTR cooler sitting round with no need for, jus look to move it, $475. I'm not on here much so if you are keen give me a msg at 0402 488 879.