Jump to content
SAU Community

Turbotech Install Question On R34

Howie

By Howie,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Howie Grand Master

Howie

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hiya fellas,

I've just picked up a turbotech manual boost controller and i'd just like some pointers before I start. My question is :

Is the pipe i've put a red arrow to on this picture the line to the wastegate actuator?

post-950-1159186969.jpg

If so is that where I should fit the turbotech boost controller ?

Thanks very much all,

Howie

Edited by Howie
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136033-turbotech-install-question-on-r34/
Share on other sites
Howie Grand Master

Howie

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

So make a cut where the red line is, insert the boost contoller there, and then which line do i bung up?

And do you take the brass piece (pictured on top in photo) out of the equation totally thereby bypassing the solenoid?

Edited by Howie
satanic Grand Master

satanic

Posted
Posted

You don't have to cut any lines (unless you can't get the old lines off that brass F fitting).

The Brass F Fitting is taken out completely... leaves you with the wastegate line and 2 going to the boost solenoid. You can use either one of those 2 lines for the new boost controller, the remaining line - just put a screw in it to bung it up; make sure it's tight.

PS: I was trying to look for a photo that Zymotic sent me when I installed mine; perhaps ask him for it?

Howie Grand Master

Howie

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hiya Stan,

Thanks mate, clear as mud now (hehe). QRI05E just sent me that photo... makes much more sense now.

Cheers heaps, i think i'm sorted out. I'll take some photos during the install and post it up here in case anyone runs into this thread needing help.

Howie

Howie Grand Master

Howie

Posted
  • Author
Posted
So how does it go with the turbotech in Howie?

Gidday bud, lo and behold it arrived last night. i'll stick in the boost gauge first (thanks stan for tips on this btw), then check that it's accurate, then give the turbotech a shot.

I'll grab some pics (maybe a video too) for the R34 so you can do your install when the time comes.

Cheers

Howie

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Pops when backing off throttle, rough-ish sound through rev range.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Keeping in mind that I am currently getting flat 10 L/100km on my RB25DET, which means >>500km/tank. I would test this car for vacuum leaks, check codes and AFM signal with NissDataScan as D says, check plugs, do a compression check while they are out.
    • Duncan
      Pops when backing off throttle, rough-ish sound through rev range.

      By Duncan · Posted

      It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • AdiR34
      Pops when backing off throttle, rough-ish sound through rev range.

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • Duncan
      Looking for a part number for this part here

      By Duncan · Posted

      So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
×
×
  • Create New...