Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there all you lucky skyline owners!

I am hopeing to be just like you in the next few months, as most people do I been reading and reading as much as possible about the skyline, Im 99% of the model I want (94 r33 GTSt) but Im a little confused about the finer details.

Ive read the big thread about r33 models and I understand the main differences between series 1 and 2 r33's (the years, slight body, motor and interior differences ect..) However Im still a little cloudy on what the differences are between say a standard r33 gtst and a r44 gtst type M or and r33 with an M spec bodykit? How many little variations are there?????? (oh and if type m and m spec are the same thing I apolagize in advance for stupidity ;))

So far the only thing (I think) I know about this area is that cars Ive seen with "m spec" body kits have a tirm skirts ect.. thats a little more chunky than standard r33's other wise cannt see any other differences.

So guys any elaboration on this type s and M and mspec stuff would be greately appreiciated!

Thanks a Mill!!!

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/14405-general-newbie-question-on-r33s/
Share on other sites

well apparently the s spec is the non turbo and the m spec is the turbo

my car was non turbo meaning it was s spec, now it has a turbo engine and pretty much every other gtst feature in it so its an sm spec..get me? haha sorry its late im going to bed

but yeah im not to sure really but thats what i have been told to believe

type s = non turbo

type m = turbo

a lot of people will say "type-m bodykit" theres no such thing, they think that the r33's with the 'chunkier' front bar and sometimes side skirts means its a 'type-m' or 'm-spec' but the front bar and side skirts are just nissan options. basically if you find any gts25t, both 1994 both manual for example, one has side skirts and meatier front bar, one has no kit at all, they're going to basically be exactly the same car mechanically, it's just a few interior/exterior mods or options that were chosen when the car was ordered.

and theres no such thing as m-spec, its just what some people call type-m, so basically its the same thing when u read it:)

also you will find that some 94 models will have the series 2 spoiler (more common on the 95) as opposed to the round one from the series 1. personally i think these look better than the series 1 spoilers.

also, as perviously mentioned... yeah the type-m body kit that people try and sell to you saying its a special version and crap like that.. is crap... but that bodykit does make the car look nicer (another personal choice).

my 2 c.

Thanks Guys!

You did well............... told me exactely what I wanted to know, lol funny you should mention people trying to Bull**** you, a car yard up here listing 2 r33 skylines one "m spec" one not, both turboed ect... one just has the optional body kit, however the car yard claims that its special model and is charging a extra $1100, lmao

Thanks again guy yas were a great help!!!

Brent: uh-huh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
×
×
  • Create New...