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Unexplained Stalling?


RedS14T
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Hi Guys!

I think i'm having my first ever problem since getting my car.

Yesterday afternoon on the way to work it stalled about 5 times for no apparent reason when stopping at traffic lights.

First time i was coming to a complete stop with 2nd gear engaged and the revs dropped and nearly stalled, this is with the clutch fully pressed.

Then the next times i gently shifted down to 1st to slow down and it stalled numerous times. I could be wrong but i think when i had the clutch pressed all the way maybe it wasn't un-engaging all the way.... again, i may be wrong...

This all happened on the first 15km of my trip to work, the next 20km's after this nothing occurred. Then on the way home this morning '35' km's i tried to make it happen again to no avail.

At first i thought the clutch 'heavy duty' needed adjustment, but there was no judder when stalling. (Not the BOV cause i put the stock one back on). I then started thinking diff, fuel pump and other more expensive things :) .

I don't have time for awhile to visit a mechanic, so i guess your advice in the meantime will help nonetheless.

Also, when on full boost the car is running fine, same as idle.

Thanks for your help i know someone will know something.

Cheers!

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It's a common problem which has many theories. From bov to fuel pressure to idle speed or mixture. Could be that they can all do it and you just have to find out which one it is.

Mine does it if I tap the accelerator up to about 3000rpm or more and then let it immediately go back down to idle. I changed my driving habits so that I slowly release the accelerator back down to idle, or if I've come off the gas harshly, I leave the gears engaged for a few seconds until it's past the stalling stage.

Now it only happens if I go to take off in heavy traffic but then realise that it was only a short move required and I quickly come off the accelerator again by reflex.

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I tried a lot of things, changed BOV but it still does it to some degree.

So you really have two choices, change driving behaviour or buy something like a HKS EIDS (electronic idle stabiliser).

I should be getting my EIDS installed and I'll report how it goes.

T.

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Guest nismo33

hi all , my first post in ere so ere we go..... first of all ive had similar problems in the past and most of em all came down to air leaks from loose clamps on intercooler piping etc , just go round and check clamps for tightness and also the hoses etc for cracks/splits and make sure theyre fitted correctly. now after saying that ive still got a "surging/stalling" problem @ the moment myself, its only happened after i had an oil catch-can fitted, i havent had a look yet, but im prayin theres a loose hose or sumthin there :(

hope this helps

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  • 2 weeks later...

yes mine did the same thing when going about 100!!! The power steering turned off and i couldnt steer the thing. When i realised wat had happened i quickly turned the ignition on and had to swerve to avoid an accident.

I hope it doesnt happen again.

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  • 2 weeks later...

i have the same problem, but after i gave it a heaps and let it idle down it would cutt out or turn off, it turned out being the air flow meter was on the way out, got one from justjapp now sweet as

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LOL you guys crack me up.

I'm getting a new AFM so I'll see how that goes.

Mine happens if I give it a heap (say 5,000rpm+) and then suddenly come off the power and the thing dips to 500rpm and then dies.

It is apparently the AFM wire being cooled suddenly by air 'backwash'.

Will the z32 cure it? Stay tuned...

T.

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I found the problem its seems i need the clutch adjusted, it only happens now and then but its pissing me off. I can see the rev's drop to about 100, then go back to 1000 without stalling. When its happening in 1st gear its hard to put it into neutral, hence the reason its the clutch, only happens for 1.000000123 secs!

Mo Money, Mo Billz

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mine does it it to and i have a feeling it could be related to the timing belt because i can now hear like a click when i get on the gass from behingd that cover and ever since that click ot has the idle problem it's going for it's 100 000 km service this week so i'll see if this fixes it.

i dont agree with the EIDS isnt that a bit of a band aid solution

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My car has this problem as well, Here are my ideas on the subject..

I have noticed that my stalls only occur when I have my headlights and other electrical devices on or when I have little petrol in the tank. It rarely happens during the day.

I then noticed that the battery in my car is rated at 280 CCA, which is miles to small for a Skyline.

What I think happens is when you have your lights on and stereo going and come off the gas at 3000rpm. As the Revs drops so does the current coming out of the alternator, when you go below 850-1000 rpm your alternator can't supply enough current for the whole car. Then fuel pump doesn't get enought current and then you stall.

I have also noticed that the car doesn't stall when I have a full tank of petrol. This is because of the fuel level in the tank, the more fuel the more downward pressure (due to the effect of gravity on the liquid) on the pump (or for the engineers in the audience NPSH). As the level drops this pressure reduces and makes it hard for the pump to work effectively. This combined with low current from the battery and a clogged fuel filter will make a car stall.

I'm going to replace the battery with a 520 CCA model some time this week and replace the fuel filter thie weekend. Should sort it out. (Sorry about the long post peoples)

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I thought i was the only one with this stupid problem...I've been trying to just get into neutral and releasing the clutch pedal as often as i can even after dropping a gear to slow down...it seems to allow the rpm's to jump back up to 650-700 when i feel a stall coming on. The best thing is to just have it looked at, cos i doubt it's doing the starter motor any favors.

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Guest downward-spiral

No, you're definitely not the only one. Have had a lot of people tell me it's the AFM, but the battery makes sense. Was just looking at it yesterday, the battery is tiny. Don't know if it gets replaced in the compliancing process, but it's not the one that's meant to be there.

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I've just been to my tuner, n all he's done is to give the idle bypass valve a couple of turns with the screwdriver...car is not stalling anymore, anywhere...idles just fine. hope this can help everyone a little...

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By increasing the idle, you are increasing the speed at which the alternator rotates. This increases its output. Should also fix the problem if its an electrical problem. I want a bigger battery to also make the car easier to start and allow me to run more electrical gear.

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