Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 89
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Cheers huddy.

Its for a small person. Like Huddy. WInk Wink Nudge Nudge, ayyyyyy huddy. Feel like a new comfy seat.

Tony,

Its a small seat. As in very squishy. no offence at all but i met u out at Mallala when you were talking to Mark & Julie. You might be to tall and have broader shoulders, so it might be to small for you.

Pics below.

02-02-07_0849.jpg

02-02-07_0850.jpg

Cars at Doyles now.

Front end is getting fixed.

Top rad support and right skirt/ battery tray is all fixed and primed or what ever they are doing.

Painting bonnet white instead of black again. Maybe a good maybe a shit thing. Oh well.

I also have my original engine at home. SO parts are going like hotcakes. Ovver me $$$ for parts. No offer refused as i want the block gone asap.

Lub you ryan

Head/ turbo/ injectors and exhaust manifold sold. Pending payment.

But nothing is for certain yet.

$600 and u can have the lot huddy.

I really dont know what its worth and what bearing/s have gone?

I really want to find out though.

But oh well. Car should be coming back today. Hopefully.

YAYAYAYAYAYA

  • 2 weeks later...

Ignition problem sucks. 18 coil packs and finidng out which ones work and dont is even worse.

Yeh Jetpower or whatever they are called for testing every single coil pack for me.

I have to have atleast 6 that work fine I hope.

Edited by R32_4door_drifting

I have found the rims/ coilovers and a front mount kit now.

SO RYAN. DOnt sell those rims that were on the black R33. the ones u have for $2000. and those buddy clubs. I will put a deposit down for them if u want.

Car will be half decent soon.

Love you all and goodnight

Edited by R32_4door_drifting

Enki Gspec, 18" x 9" + 10", 114.3mm PCD, 5 Stud.

Nissan Skyline R32 Buddy Club coilovers

And a Greedy Frount Mount Kit for $600 from a sponsor.

Dammit.

Now someone give me some f#$king good coil packs as mine are all roasted and need some new ones I think. Havent heard back from the tester place so not expecting good news.

Edited by R32_4door_drifting

Its not necessarily the coil packs, I got spitfires and still get a miss at 5500, I think its just running ridiculously rich (below 10:1) and causing it. With the splitfires its not as bad and doesn't happen as often however.

nice one Brenton

good work on keeping your car better the devil you know I say plus you gotta mod it a bit more before we can do a straight swap

lol

im assuming by modding it a bit more you want him to put a 25 in it for you?

ahh ryan i remember the day you were "25's are shit... 20's rock"

*slaps you*

20's for the win!

maybe check fuel pump/fuel filter/fuel reg also brenton?

did you use the injectors off of your old engine? if not maybe try swapping those over!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...