Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

BOOSTMEISTER: Thnx for the info, and like u said i had already decided to not use a garrett core... to put it bluntly they are one of the hsitest cores i have found!! I have had some very good luck and have got onto a secret i am gunna blow now, that most of the top flowing cores with the leasst pressure drop and still very good cooling efficiency is the new Adrad core which i am jumping to get hold of. As for ARE... they are the end tanks i am after!! If i'm not wong wrong ur a freak... u knew all my moves :(:) Yeah basically they were the people who sorta steered me away from cooler prices. I was after an ARE cooler for my car after many conversations with Richard from ARE via e-m@il i decided to go with one until i thought about what i was paying for it. It was around the 1200 mark which i believe is a bit too much and is the reason i am trying to almost halve that for u guys!! Basically it will be an ARE cooler i am selling.

:mad: no probs mate. I remember when I was looking at my first cooler, I looked at all the Jap stuff ( I used to import straight from Japan) and the ARE stuff was just as expensive, I was about to get a TRUST cooler but after I looked more carefully at the ARE one I realised it was far superior. I guess the thing with price is that Richard runs a business and has to pay high rent, wages and all the other running costs that are associated with owning a business. You have to make profit to run a business I guess :)

There are also other costs that he incurred that you will not have to if you use his designs......you won't need to spend the 800 hours on a flow bench to see if your idea works which will save you money. Also he runs a very expensive welder $38 000 I think, that thing can weld the fins on a core (paper thin alloy) which means that the finish product is beautiful with perfect welds etc.

If you can achieve an equal with their product then fantastic but please don't advertise on here that you are selling an ARE cooler unless it is spot on if you know what I mean

(Don't take offense to this, I am just offering some advice, Richard is a friend and one of the nicest people I have met especially in the aftermarket game, he has spent years and years perfecting his product and doesn't deserve to have his reputation tarnished)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @dbm7 and @GTSBoy thank you both very much! will give that a shot!
    • Sounds good. Provided the panel is flat/level I'd be happy to start the painting process.  While you are learning, for sure you could do this. Its only paint, you can always sand it all back and start again. Its only your time and money on materials, but while you're learning, really its time and money spent on your education.  Once you know how to do this bodywork and painting, you won't want to waste your time and money on frivolous activities lol. 
    • Yep I will use a guide coat after putting filler, I will do it on the whole panel as I'm a beginner so chances I've made quite a few errors. In that photo, I think that was a low spot, I just for example said to pretend it's flat but I will put filler + guide coat after to assess where I'm at. Yep with that picture, the panel is wet as it rained when I took the photo. But all those scratches are completely smooth, I went over it with 240 grit and can't feel it, even with my nail digging into it. I was legit thinking to buy a 2k can and spray primer to see how it turns out but then thought to myself it's going to be a mess doing it haha. Good mention there. Thanks for all that info I think I know what to do next.
    • Prior to laying down the primer, you need to make sure the surface is completely level. For example, based on this picture, I strongly suspect that the areas marked in blue are higher then the area marked in green.  If you spray primer over this entire area, then paint and clear it, the finished result will 100% show the low area. It will stick out like dogs balls. Unfortunately the paint won't magically level out the low areas as you lay it down.  Without seeing it in person, I expect that the green area will need to be filled, then use a guide coat and check that the entire repair area is level with a large sanding block.  With this picture, are you saying that even though you can see the scratches, the panel is in fact completely smooth and flat? If this is the case sure you could prep and paint it as it is.     The picture with the paint you described as blistering, it's hard for me to comment on from the photo alone. It looks like the panel is wet? Dunno, looks strange. Does the panel feel as smooth as glass when you run your hand over it? **** Going back to your question again, generally you would only sand the primer if you made a mistake while laying down the primer.  If the panel is prepped properly and you lay the primer down properly, you should not need to sand the primer.  This wouldn't work - Don't prep the panel. Spray primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas where the issues appear. Spray more primer and see how it turns out. Sand the areas....... Yeah you'd go round and round in circles getting no where. 
×
×
  • Create New...