Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

i have an aftermarket HID for my R34, but it's made the parkers look like yellow pieces of poo. Just wondering if anyone has LED bulbs for parkers? Knows of anyone that sells LED bulbs for parkers?

i'm not exactly sure what type of bulb my parkers would take anyway...

cheers,

daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/149285-led-bulbs-for-parkers/
Share on other sites

Got mine from Autobarn...jst ask for parker bulbs and ask for the white light ones...the bulbs are normally blue but emit a whitish light..cost $10 for the 2. They are a wedge type bulb. easy as to replace too. You could remove ur existing one and just take it in to them to make sure u have the correct ones.

+ PARKER (WEDGE) - SMALL LIGHTS IN FRONT

++ POLARG M4 (BRIGHT) - $20 A PAIR

++ POLARG L01 (BRIGTHER)* - $25 A PAIR

++ POLARG J51 LED (BRIGHTEST)* - $49 A PAIR

I believe all 3 are the same fit, just different brightness.

Go buy a set and tell us how bright is brightest :cool:

I just installed HID for my R32 and the parkers looks like candel lights.

I then bought the following, now they almost have the same colour.

The LED are T10 which I assume is the same in R34.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...p;rd=1&rd=1

How difficult are they to install? Do you have to drop the front bar?

nope piece of cake! parkers are located at the corner, if your hands are small enough, just stick ur hands in there...twist, pull out the whole socket, replace bulb, stick it back in, twist to lock and bobs ur uncle! I replaced both of mine in like less than 5 mins.

yeah, it's quite easy, just a little tight and fiddly. I noticed too that if either don't have everything connected up, or you don't have your front indicators connected up, you indicate at a quicker pace :P so if one day you car indicates very quickly (in terms of temp) something might not be connected

anywho... what's the specs i'm looking at?

12 V, 50 W? Wedge type, is that what a parker is? I'm not going to buy a $49 pair if there are like $10 on ebay. I'm happy to be guinea pig... just not sure what the "details" for our parkers are...

The LED are T10 which I assume is the same in R34.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...p;rd=1&rd=1

can anyone confirm if these will fit an R34? if they do, i'm happy to give them a go for the price! cheap as chips!

  • 1 month later...

I had something like the following on me old R34

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/2pcs-T10-194-Wide-A...1QQcmdZViewItem

Except the one I got was from US and it was 16led ones. Dont get any that even have a small amount of blue, as the lense inside the parker casing sorta amplifies the blue color and you will get a nice little defect (speaking from experience). I would go with ones that have more led than one or two as they will put out more light and would fit much better with HIDs in terms of color (unless its the lex led ones).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...