Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just put my engine back in for the 2nd time as i had an issue with the valves,(dont ask)

put it all back in this week, just needed oil and a spark plug as my mate dropped it,

started putting coolant in and opened the bleeder up, blah blah blah, noticed a big puddle of coolant on top of inlet port 1, thought it wass the orings so i put some new ones in, tried it again......

turns out that the brand new tomei metal inlet gaskets i put in 5/6 are good but the 1 inbetween the head and the inlet is leaking, GRRRRRRRRRR.

not keen on pulling the motor out again just to do that,

Have any of you Guys used metal gaskets on teh inlet?

Did you use sealant as well?

Jeremy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151284-not-happy-jan/
Share on other sites

Oh the wonderfull world of fixing the bloody skyline. Good luck with it. I've got a coolant leak in a bitch of a spot. Starter motor has to come out to get to it.

yeah i know, theyre nothing but.. got it going yesterday arvo, no leaks or anything, but got a tappet noise at cylinder 6, which is where repco machine shop put in my new valves, not happy because the clearances havent been set right, i hate engine noises, makes you look bad when your driving,

done about 18ks now,

make sure you dont lie underneath the starter motor when you unbolt it, cause the coolant puddles on it and then when it moves it goes all over you(as i found out yesterday) lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151284-not-happy-jan/#findComment-2820749
Share on other sites

'make sure you dont lie underneath the starter motor when you unbolt it, cause the coolant puddles on it and then when it moves it goes all over you(as i found out yesterday) lol'

Thanks for the warning. That's what it's doing!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151284-not-happy-jan/#findComment-2820852
Share on other sites

as with all metal gaskets you should use a hylomar spray on them.

and 3 bond around the coolant areas.

thanks Dave, i learnt that one the hard way,

All good now, changed the plugs as 4 were cracked, going great again, but with slight tappet noise from cyl 6

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151284-not-happy-jan/#findComment-2821200
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...