Jump to content
SAU Community

Can Somone Help Me, Got Splitfires And Still Nothing

WogsRus

By WogsRus,
in Tasmania

 Share

Recommended Posts

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
Posted

SO this is where i am up to now.

MUST READ THIS FIRST

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...151261&st=0

I have checked a few things and going to do alot more checking arround. BUT i got new splitfire coils, from SLIDE, and put them in and the car still misfires. I have the stock ECU with an SAFC II tuned by kutz, and all seams ok, but i still have to run .6mm gap so that it doesn't missfire, now that sux.

Can somone help me, where can i get my splitfires checked out to see if they are ok, and what else should i do?

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hay toffy, i did the folowing last night.

CAS out and tested, correct opperation and correct voltages.

Pulled out the coil loom, correct voltages, and no bad earths, all trigers correct. Coils gettign 12.4V and triger 10.2V.

All injectors correct, work as per manual, triger correctly.

Now back to 0.6mm gap and see how that goes.

I am so fed up, this sux. Sorry all sprakplugs are new too.

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
Posted

How did you check the injectors cobber???

I know that when my car started to miss cause of a fuel misshap when i pulled them out and got them check that 2 were knackered when they looked ok!!!

Have you check each coil indiviually to see if it just a dodgy one???

Honestly it doesn't sound like it was the stock coils giving you grief to begin with!!!

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well i haven't pulled the injectors out, just did the test in the book, voltages, resistance, and pulsed each individially, the thing is each plug looks exactly thesame, no leaning out or nothing. There are no leaks of any sought. The thing is too, it would be missfirying at the TOP aswell but it does not.

Well i am oly doing what seamed logical, i mean the coils were definatly shot, the old spark looked like something geriatric.

The car performance is definatly better, easier starts, better idle, and fuel consumption is up aswell.

I don't have the money to do much more right now, but i might have to look into the injectors.

BUT talking to KUTSI it definatly spark related as it happens at the peak cylinder pressure. So who knows. i think it's electrical, in regards to spark.

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
Posted
Well i haven't pulled the injectors out, just did the test in the book, voltages, resistance, and pulsed each individially, the thing is each plug looks exactly thesame, no leaning out or nothing. There are no leaks of any sought. The thing is too, it would be missfirying at the TOP aswell but it does not.

Well i am oly doing what seamed logical, i mean the coils were definatly shot, the old spark looked like something geriatric.

The car performance is definatly better, easier starts, better idle, and fuel consumption is up aswell.

I don't have the money to do much more right now, but i might have to look into the injectors.

BUT talking to KUTSI it definatly spark related as it happens at the peak cylinder pressure. So who knows. i think it's electrical, in regards to spark.

It certainly sounds electrical cobber.

You changed your ECU didn't you, do you still have the other one to try and see if that makes a difference at all???

WHITER33GTS-T Veteran

WHITER33GTS-T

Posted
Posted

My 33 had been playing up for a while backfireing and the engine cutting out. Thought it was to CAS but changed that and it was still doing the same thing. I finally found out the the plug that joined Haltech to the factory loom was a little loose and the connection would cut out and kill the engine.

Just something else to check.

XRATED Veteran

XRATED

Posted
Posted

After all that. I'd replae the old wiring loom (ignighter module to coil packs), with new fresh wires, of a larger size(there can be a performance gain as well). I'd replace your ingiter module, permanently. Then index your plugs, for height and point the gap (in the plug) at the intake valves (just mark a line on the ceramic with a texta....

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well i will check the connection plugs, but all seam preatty good, will do.

In regards to ignitor, i have a S2, and do not have it, it's inbuilt to the coils.

Does anyone have a S2 loom i can borrow overnight to have a look, i did check mine and it seamed ok, no lose conections or anyting, all good earths.

CAN YOU tell me what the plug indexing is, i think i understand, you mean point the electrode tip towards the intake valve, correct? How do you know if it is going to be the correct way in the head? ALSO what do you mean index for height?, ensure that all the plugs are the same spark gap, or hight of electrode?

SO DOES anyone have a loom i can borrow?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • turbo76lx
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By turbo76lx · Posted

      Also build this EH ute with 370z motor and gearbox with a couple of turbos just for fun.  
    • turbo76lx
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By turbo76lx · Posted

      Got the passenger door on plus the master cylinder and booster. Loaded up to take it home. At home, the colour changes a lot in the light.
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Nothing cheap, but I have seen the AC Hydraulic DK13HLQ which is pretty close to what you're asking for. The problem is the hydraulic cylinder mandates that the back of the jack be a certain height and Skylines have fairly deep inset floor jack points. A more certain and cheap option is to get some nominal 2x10 inch lumber boards and have one board be 1.5 feet, the other board 3 feet. Glue it all together with lots of clamps to maintain pressure. Make two of these. The ramp suggested above is a good idea, it takes quite a bit of clutch slip to get over each of the boards. I only need the first ~1.5 inches for my low profile jack on a standard ride height car but a lowered car you want to go up to the full ~3-3.5 inches. Paint it or store indoors if you want it to last.
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok. And Nistune? I read (here too) mainly on Stagea threads that it can by "turn off" with Nistune. But they say they still had the sensor plug in. Next week iam going to the Nistune(and other ECUs) tuner so i can finally make it work. I drove the car home and apart from the cut it drove great. No misfire no smoke no hesitation or rough start...so hoping it is this sensor that is missing  
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I just stack 2 pieces of 200x50 timber on top of each other. Total length about 900mm, with the top one being a little shorter and both having a 45° angle cut on them to make the front edge a bit of a ramp. Put these in front of each front wheel, drive up on them, throw the trolley jack under. Takes 1 minute. Scissor jacks can eat a bowl of dicks. I never use on under my car unless desperate.
×
×
  • Create New...