Jump to content
SAU Community

I Want I Want!

Hella Flush

By Hella Flush,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

daisu Mentor

daisu

Posted
Posted (edited)

Mine is an '88 model, only goes to 8k and the looks like the one on the right.

I think the different style numbers depended on the badge (SE, Sports, Sports Cruising etc).

The cluster in the original post goes up to 9k, but it is the same style as the one on the right, which only goes to 8k.

Also, my cluster doesn't seem to have a check engine light, is it supposed to be next to the cat temp sensor?

Edited by daisu
  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Hella Flush Experienced

Hella Flush

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i am stupid

checked mine today... 9k rpm revs up to...

ordered my new cluster tonite... 1 week n she will be here mwahahahaha its been painted white in japan (the cluster surround)

so ill just be pinching the actual dials and thats it...

last nite my gf had a stupid idea of pulling off the green bits of the warning lights - so they were clear...

got a headache driving last nite without the green tabs over the indicator and warning lights LOL... theyre goin back on

Hella Flush Experienced

Hella Flush

Posted
  • Author
Posted

nah... it was a stupid idea to make them clear...too bright though needs the green slip over it... i dont mind green indicators

once my new cluster arrives next week from jap ill play around with colour options - so excited to have white dials coming!

Traditimeour Mentor

Traditimeour

Posted
Posted

My cluster is almost the same as the one on the right, except it goes to 9k and has the green behind it, the ceff is apparently a 90 model.

A friend of mine can get the back plate change completely, so you can can have red, white whatever for around 50-100 dollars.

I've been meaning to get mine done, but just to lazy.

Resin Rising Star

Resin

Posted
Posted (edited)

my dash is like the one on the right (same lettering) but its manual so none of this park / drive bullshit. Doesnt have the cruise control light though. The rev dial goes to 9k and its a 1988 model. so yea maybe the lettering is based on the model of car it was ......dash light is green though

Edited by Resin
Traditimeour Mentor

Traditimeour

Posted
Posted (edited)

here are my efforts tonight.

DSC00208.jpg

painted the surround

DSC00206.jpg

stripped the green sleeve of with yellow globes

but i think i f*@ked up. My mate pulled the needle out of the temp gauge and the tacho, now the temp isn't reading like it used to. So i spose tacho has a good chance of being wrong.

Anyone know how to fix????

Edited by Traditimeour
daisu Mentor

daisu

Posted
Posted
here are my efforts tonight.

DSC00208.jpg

painted the surround

DSC00206.jpg

stripped the green sleeve of with yellow globes

but i think i f*@ked up. My mate pulled the needle out of the temp gauge and the tacho, now the temp isn't reading like it used to. So i spose tacho has a good chance of being wrong.

Anyone know how to fix????

Compare the tacho with an aftermarket one, and just get an aftermarket temp gauge, factory temp gauges are way too slow.

open24hours Explorer

open24hours

Posted
Posted
from memory thats your projector light button... i think let me check when i finish work

You mean high beam? That's on the other side. If you mean the fog light button then that's not on the cluster. It's some sort of warning light but I can't figure out what for.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...