Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

can someone describe where the boost guage gets its signal from so i can fix? its an rb26 r33 gtr... new car so still learning where everything is...

The tube to the map censor is probably broken , they get fragile from the heat . Just look for a tube ( about 5mm thick) going from the rear of the plenum to the map censor near the brake booster .

The tube to the map censor is probably broken , they get fragile from the heat . Just look for a tube ( about 5mm thick) going from the rear of the plenum to the map censor near the brake booster .

so does the guage see a voltage signal from the map sensor? or does it see a physical vacuum signal all the way back to the guage?

Yer mine (R34 GTT) only works intermittently, very annoying. I checked that hose to the MAP sensor and its fine. Hope I don't have to rip the dash apart :P its the only thing wrong with the whole car.

always get an aftermarket guage that reads in something more useful eg PSI.

oh btw, its a nismo center cluster... how do these work, electrically or mechanically via vacuum?

contacted the guy i bought the car off, he said he had a new battery installled day before i picked it up and it was working before this??? hmmm...

so does the guage see a voltage signal from the map sensor? or does it see a physical vacuum signal all the way back to the guage?

Did you check the tube ? The tube goes to the map sensor and then voltage from there to the gauge . The gauge is electric not mechanical.

ok im not entirely sure which is the map sensor your talking about? can anyone tell me how to fault find the source of this problem? none of the hoses off the intake plenum look perished... there is an electrical sensor at the front of the plenum? what does it do?

i pulled the dash apart and checked the wires and connection at the gauges, looks fine... no busted hoses under the bonnet... what next???

someone please help me out!

Did you read post 2?

The tube to the map censor is probably broken , they get fragile from the heat . Just look for a tube ( about 5mm thick) going from the rear of the plenum to the map censor near the brake booster .

REAR of the plenum NOT front.. You will find a steel tube about 30-40mm long and about 4 mm thick, get a new tube and plug it in there, don't even try to re-use the old hose, the same thing will happen again ..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...