Jump to content
SAU Community

Buying New Splits

sumguy

By sumguy,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

sumguy Enthusiast

sumguy

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm looking to purchase some front splits for my '97 r33 series 2, should I get 5.25" or 6.5" for the front? Will be looking at purchasing the mbquart qsd216 6.5 or the 5.25" if they 6.5" wont fit in off ebay USA

It says the mounting depth for the 6.5" is 63.5mm

http://www.mbquart.com/all/downloads/einbaumasse/q_216.pdf

I also have a pair of boston z6 6.5" splits to install too, I will be probably putting these as the rear speakers because the crossovers are very big and I dont know where to put them. Will this be a good idea? Or should i just install the bostons in the front and the mbquarts in the rear? Speakers will be running of a pheonix gold titanium 500.4 75watt 4channel amp. Any suggestions will be appreciated!

Edited by sumguy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/157827-buying-new-splits/
Share on other sites
siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
Posted (edited)

Go for the 6.5 inch spilts on the front.. It will sound a lot better with a bit more mid bass..

(yes the stock pods can hold the spilts- needs a little triming tho.. search for my thread -Hertz front spilts installed.. has a few pics etc etc)

Also i dont think the 5.25 spilts will bolt to the stock pods.. 6inch will deff fit!! hard to find..

I put my crossovers in the doors.. As in the gap where you put your street directory.. Fits perfectly for mine!!

As for what speakers to put in the front and rear.. well it comes down to your ears.

No need for spilts on the rear..

Edited by siddr20
are33 Proficient

are33

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have a 97 R33 S2 as well and i put a set of alpine type x splits in the front and back, both 6.5", The front speakers went straight in without modifying anything and i put the tweeters on the part that covers the wiring for the side mirror electrical wires, Definatly get sound deadening as skyline doors sound like absoloute shit without them, I am getting my doors done around august as well as my boot. I also have the crossovers in the same place as siddr20 With the wiring running back into the door, it looks good. the back i had a bit of trouble with, My car actually never came factory with parcel tray speakers (no idea why) and the people that had it in japan had a set of 6x9 pods that they took out before selling it (i could see the marks that it left) So i just took the factory parcel tray out and then made one myself out of MDF, just re covered it in carpet, and put the air vents in and cut out the speaker holes.. Was a bit dodgey getting the speakers in had to make some "modifications", And i just mounted the tweeters flush inside the rear side panel on each side in the interior, Right where your ears are if your a passenger :laugh:, I have the crossovers mounted in the boot next to the amp.

gallery_31704_1601_79292.jpg

gallery_31704_1601_146870.jpg

(yes i am aware that it is on an angle, Its my first time at doing things myself haha)

Edited by OBNXSH

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...