Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys just got my R33 dream car, high grade, factory standard and runs like it has just left the dealership, low kms...or has it? To my disguist I had full inspection done by State Roads in Sydney (where the car is from)and all was well. Car arrives on truck to my house in Adel and when I take it for a cruise all of a sudden I notice trip computer and odometer are not ticking over :D evidence of roll back or is this a common problem when transporting etc?

I'd appreciate all opinions and thoughts guys cos I spent some major cash $21k in fact and if I've been taken for a ride, Consumer Affairs will be notified!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158033-odometer-malfunction/
Share on other sites

Hi guys just got my R33 dream car, high grade, factory standard and runs like it has just left the dealership, low kms...or has it? To my disguist I had full inspection done by State Roads in Sydney (where the car is from)and all was well. Car arrives on truck to my house in Adel and when I take it for a cruise all of a sudden I notice trip computer and odometer are not ticking over :D evidence of roll back or is this a common problem when transporting etc?

I'd appreciate all opinions and thoughts guys cos I spent some major cash $21k in fact and if I've been taken for a ride, Consumer Affairs will be notified!

Is it a fresh import?

Not too sure, dealer didn't say it was fresh stock and it got complianced as soon as I bought it.

Oh ok , Does the condition of the car match the kms? Like worn handbrake lever steering wheel etc ( i guess thats the only way to go by), Its very hard to say it could of been turned back here or in Japan, I asshume it has a std speedo.

I think most people accept that if you buy an import the kms would have likely been wound back. When I was getting my car inspected I asked the mechanic whether he thought the kms were genuine. He replied by saying that "anyone who believes imports have genuine kms still believes in Santa Claus." Not that this helps you much i guess...

Edited by ricsvtr
I think most people accept that if you buy an import the kms would have likely been wound back. When I was getting my car inspected I asked the mechanic whether he thought the kms were genuine. He replied by saying that "anyone who believes imports have genuine kms still believes in Santa Claus." Not that this helps you much i guess...

i got genuine log books since new :) cheering

Yea these are some fair points, well interior and engine show signs of a car around the 50,000km mark defintely. I think no matter how much of a pro detailer you are you couldn't get my car in the condition it is if in fact it had 150,000kms.

Only wear is on gear knob, everything else is spotless and I purposely bought the car in stock condition that way chances of being a drift car were reduced.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...