Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Suspension Place + Workshop 4 Major Service, Preferably Liverpool/fairfield Way


Recommended Posts

Hey guys yes i did search but i thought someone might point me the right direction.

Well to cut the story short i had a date with a kerb last night after loosing control in the wet (no flamming please).

Now im not very familiar with suspension components and such but both passenger sides hit the curb, back wheel is buckled and looks like the control arms, joints even shockings are out of whack. Any one reccommend a supspension joint or even workshop/mechanic in the know about these things so i can get a quote of repairs and see if its worth going through insurance. or if the damage is worse than it looks. Got a day off tommorow so would like to get it out of the way then.

suspension.JPG

quick pic i managed to get dont know if you can make much of it

cheers

Edited by OnAhigh

well took it to midas as they were the closet place to me that was avaliable.

have to replace rear control arm, front swaybar. then after wheel alignment there gonna have another inspection see if anything else damaged

buddy look on here for the part, lower control arm. bought one for $40 from some guy who was wrecking his car. cost me $60 from midas to get it fitted. then $50 for a wheel alignment. All done. Hardest part will be finding the part, but have a look on the for sale section for ppl wrecking their car.

buddy look on here for the part, lower control arm. bought one for $40 from some guy who was wrecking his car. cost me $60 from midas to get it fitted. then $50 for a wheel alignment. All done. Hardest part will be finding the part, but have a look on the for sale section for ppl wrecking their car.

[/quote

wish i would of seen this sooner, lol paying alot more than that now as is. but they managed to find a new control arm and front sway bar. i didnt really have much choice as the car wasnt driveable

well car is all good, camber is out bout half a degree, on the right side but nothing major. Now its time to change the front rotors as they are fudged.

any one recommend any cheap places to buy some replacement rotors?

also should i just buy standard all got slotted? cross drilled? and last does anyone have part numbers avaliable saves the guys at the shop from stuffing around trying to look for the ones i need. by the way the car is a 1993 r32gtst m spec

cheers

go to heasmans, they reall know their stuff. diagnosed a worn ball joint on the lower control arm in like 5 minutes of looking around on my friend's car.

PS: what were you thinking driving around with tyres like that? You're lucky you didn't run into someone otherwise, guaranteed, your inurance wouldn't have paid out

  • 4 weeks later...

Bit of an update i fear i might have chasis damage from either this accident or one from previous accident which i dont know about. Can anyone point me in the right direction to someone who can check my chasis and see if its bent or not

cheers

  • 2 weeks later...

jack it up and have a look, it may show as a slight fattening of the rail, as it was squished a bit. If you think its only out the tiniest bit and you cant see it, then its probably not out. You should be able to see any damage on the rail. If your reo bar at the front is gone you are more likely to have a bit of warping after an accident

if your car is crabbing, check that it had a 4 wheel alignment if its hicas equipped, this is common to a few r32's ive seen. get a lock bar to fix the rear settings permanently or make sure there are no leaks in the system if you want to keep it, as low fluid makes it do wierd things too even at low speeds.

Thanks mate, will def the hicas and fluids. Got four wheel alignment today, rear is pushed back slightly, front was out by 4mm they did the best to fix it. back and front tire werent on properly. he said if i get front castor rods that will help to adjust the front. Well after driving it today i can say it is 10times better thats for sure. But i still havent been on the hume highway cause that road is screwed and where it happened most

while im here instead of starting a new thread. Im coming up to my 100,000 service now ive searched already and have gathered a list of most parts that need to replaced. Any one reccomend any workshop to do a major service to my 32gtst? Around the liverpool/fairfield area but will travel if workshop comes reccomended/reasonably priced aswell.

cheers

dave

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • How would you even adjust the clutch if the pedal already has the correct free play? The operating cylinder has no adjustment in mounting position or rod length. On pull style clutches there is also no ability to adjust the bearing carrier. Push type I can see how adjusting the carrier height makes it all work.   If this is the twin plate clutch did you verify that your friction disks were oriented correctly? It's not mentioned in the directions at all you just have to notice that one side the friction disks have a part number on the hub fingers and a subtle coning to those fingers. Another thing that I noticed was if you put the friction disks in backwards the pressure plate fingers will not be even and flat when the clutch is installed.
    • yeah, mechanically, it is probably do-able, off the top of my head, there would be the transfer case, which I believe will bolt up to the rear of the RWD transmission, the shorter rear tail shaft. A front drive shaft, front diff, engine upper sump, front drive shafts, front hubs and front AWD struts (they are shaped around the front drive shafts), LCAs (at the very least from the front suspension) oil cooler.  You might want the rear diff from an AWD too, so you can be certain the front and rear diff rations are identical.  Who knows what brackets and mounts you might need.  So a whole doner car might be the best option if you need to maintain RHD. Then actually making it work, that would be a whole different story.
    • Take the fall as a warning sign for future endeavours  Stay safe mate
    • hi mate, HKS cooler piping still available by any chance?
×
×
  • Create New...