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Swops Holden Vl Turbo 230+rwk Very Big $$$ Spent Need Smaller Car Going Cheap Offers Save Big $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$&


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holden VL TURBO CALAIS 2 CALAIS 2

Automatic 3.3 turbo

.can email pics pm email addys to me and will send asap.thanks.

.holden calis 1987 calis turbo series 2)

.OVER 220kw+ .woops 215i hsv.s

. RACV tested mech sound car.

.Automatic RB30ET worked/

..Series 2, white over silver paint work 90% smick 1 stone chip on bonet size of 2cent coin..

.NEW blow of valve.

.Rebuilt motor by allsparks 1 year old with recpts.

..new transmission in late 2005.$3000+ with proformanice gear...

...Has Wiseco forged pistons.

.580cc injectors.

.Bosch Motorsport pump..

.large front mount cooler.

.T66 turbo.

.3inch exhaust from turbo back hsv .

.XF throttle body/

.Microtech computer upgraded .cost over $2000

...4 speed Jatco Auto,with racing oil and rings seals ect custom gear box....

..3800 racing stall converter....

...stage 3 racing shift kit ....

..3.9 L.S.D (very tight) custom...

..lowered with King Springs new.

..sports shocks..

.polished Calais wheels with brand new 225 tyrers.

.remote central locking with remote start.pager alarm imoberliser ,worth $2000...

...tinted windows, may need retinted qwoted $200 has old tint im just fussy.

..grey/blue interior with Walkinshaw front bucket seats worth $1000 each....

.full eletrics.everything works.

,peter brock seat covers.

.sony cd player .

.speacers ect . brand new not fited.

.sports steering wheel very nice.cost $450...

..mounted boost gauge.

.turbo timer.needs to be hooked up as was just upgraded.

.no leaks nothing.

.original metal venetians.

.NOTE CAR JUST NEEDS DYNO THATS IT<MECH SOUND

comes with 2x sets of rims both with new tyers + spares parts ect

mech sound cheap car some recpts provided .have spent over $34,000 building and doing this car up moving to cbd need smaller skyline silvia sumthing like that legit car legit sale going cheap manny more mods and fetuers 1 of a kind car cheap. HA TO GO Asp BEST OFFER GETS IT starting at $13,000neg/ swops [email protected] email me offers qwestions much loved looked arfter car

.

post-28105-1172705686.jpg

post-28105-1172705838.jpg

nissin pintara eng is r31 out of my skyline r31 as pintaras and skyline sedans wagons had same parts in them . its been looked arfter so pritty much would make a good eng to mod ect ,

and the one half in bits mate sead just needs rebuild .

pakenham vic .car has had majer work and cash spent sleeer car , was being done up for crusing/ burnout/ drag car , takes anny 5l v8 and most 5.7l v8s iv come across , 11.87sec car proven manny times at sandown email me if intrsted

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  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
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