Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i tried removing my o2 sensor the other day, it has come off 6 months ago when i changed dump pipes..

after my efforts the other day my ecutalk is telling me the o2 sensor is really really farked now, not just farked.... o2 is reading between .00v to .99v at idle... car is running like total crap and conks out when left for 1min or so...

now that i know its totally farked, reckon i just bash the top off it with a hammer and undo the bottom part with a socket set? have to get it off, and ive got a replacement here...

ive unplugged it and its running .30v which is cold start now so it will run rich as....

any opinions or ideas?

thanks all

Ed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160243-o2-sensor/
Share on other sites

ive tried just about everything else, when we got it out of the old dump it was put in a vice and a spanner and breaker bar was used!

this is looking like the only way, used a spanner, breaker and hammer in my driveway but couldnt get it off!

smashy smashy time!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160243-o2-sensor/#findComment-2975468
Share on other sites

Yikes!

Get some innox or some kind of rust-easing spray onto it overnight. Then give the ol' spanner another try.

OR... if you don't care about the old one, the bashing the top off to get a socket on will probably work too... if you get more leverage on the ratchet than you do the spanner.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160243-o2-sensor/#findComment-2975609
Share on other sites

wd40ed it over night, still no luck

i think when i was attempting removal the other day and hitting the spanner with the hammer its farked up the insides even more

dont care about it, do guna smash it goooood

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160243-o2-sensor/#findComment-2975634
Share on other sites

UPDATE

the right size spanner, some wog power and juggernaut power we managed to get it off without breaking it

pitty i wanted to smash something....

new sensor is in and reading alot more smoothly, although there are still some variations in the voltage i think thats because its running rich due to the tune...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160243-o2-sensor/#findComment-2975817
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...