Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 Engine Bearings

lachlanmatthew
 Share

Recommended Posts

lachlanmatthew Rookie

lachlanmatthew

Posted
Posted

can somone please help me, i posted a few days ago but no one seemed to know anything as there was no reply!

i have taken the bottome end of my motor apart with the head still intact on a engine stand with the intention of replacing the big end bearings and main bearings and thrust washer and the oil pump also. everything is appart. bearings have worn a little but i guess you would expet that with 100,000 kms and a heavy foot for a least 40,000 :happy:

there a no deep scores in the bearings just slight wear (coulor) and the crank looks perfect, it will be getting crack tested and the journals looked at to be positive that its fine.

my problem is that when i spoke to nissan and tried to order bearings the told me when ordering standard bearings i need to cheak markings on the crank and main and con rod caps and compare this to a chart and work out the grade i need for each bearing. they faxed me a graph but its in japanese and i cant make any sense of it.

PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME!!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160421-rb25-engine-bearings/
Share on other sites
lachlanmatthew Rookie

lachlanmatthew

Posted
  • Author
Posted

when you buy the acl bearings.... standard size not oversize i think its the same as nissan, they grade the bearings depending on the markings... think it may have somthing to do with balance or the exact circumference of the journal.. i dunno, all i know is when you buy a standard bearing you need to know if its a garde 1,2 or 3??

lachlanmatthew Rookie

lachlanmatthew

Posted
  • Author
Posted

wel nissan have told me i need a grade of bearing, those markings on the front end of the crank on the conrod caps, on the side of the con rod, on your main caps.... they are there apparently for bearing grades. i know if i get the crank machined to 10thou oversize i can just order a set of 10 thou oversize bearings... but there is nothing at all wrong with my crank. anyone else have any idea?

lachlanmatthew Rookie

lachlanmatthew

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah i spoke to the head mechanic of marooka nissan service and he suggested that because he couldnt tell me over the phone... said he would have to look at it. it just seems like such a pain in the arse to get it there... its all in parts... the head is still on the block... its upside down on a engine stand. plus i have to get time off work to make it there!!!

i really thought i could just pull it apart and replace the bearings like any other motor.... this SUCKS!!!!!

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
king bearings and linised crank for $300? so who did it and did you just send them a crank and they linish it and give you bearings that will fit?

Nepean Engines in Penrith.

took the crank to them, 2 days later got it back with new bearings and lynished . i think though that the mains are another brand not king come to mention it, as he said that the main force is on teh big ends not the main bearings, this is for a 300rwkw power goal which he knew about.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • tidi0x
      Nismo GT Pro LSD configurations

      By tidi0x · Posted

      I have wasted too much time on this, more than I am willing to admit. I hope someone can set the record straight for me.  I want to replace my Nismo (non GT pro, non GT) standard 2 way in my R33 GTST with a 1.5 way... Ideally I want to get an ATS 1.5 way Carbon LSD, but I don't want to reuse my 29 spline 5x1 axle stubs, and new 30 spline 5x1's are impossible to get a hold of ($$$), and I don't want to drop the cash on going to 6x1 stubs and axles ATM. Which leads me to the Nismo GT Pro 38420-RSS15-B5 or RSS20, as they come with new axle stubs meant for the diff, and is "Convertible" from a 2 way or 1.5 way to "Other ways", but that is where I am stuck as the documentation is a bit all over the place.  To sum up what I have found I believe the all the Nismo GT Pro PN's are convertible from 2 way, 1.5 way, and 1 way; but Nismo sells 2 skus (2 & 1.5) so people do not have to disassemble to convert it.  I found this thread on 350z but it left the question unanswered. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/620032-nismo-gt-pro-lsd-1-5-vs-2-way-and-torque.html  Essentially the way I think it all works out is like follows...  2 way  1 way  and 1.5 way would be the center pinion shaft in the 1 way block, but with the with the center flipped 180*. So the ramped side of the pinion would face the 1 way gate and act like a ramp.    I can only get my hands on the 2 way in the states, and I am not trying to get stuffed on tariffs by ordering from Japan or anywhere else. I want to confirm that if I get the 2 way I can convert it to the 1.5.     
    • StevenJames32
      Single Turbo Conversion Lines.

      By StevenJames32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I have purchased my first GTR and I want to do a single turbo conversion to it. I've been doing as much research as i can and there are a few things that I can find and need to know. I need to run a coolant feed, coolant return, oil feed and oil return for my turbo setup. Here's what I know so far: On the hot side of the rb26 there is coolant feed, oil feed and oil return. Coolant return will be going around the front of the engine to where the thermostat is located. I will need to block off the rear oil return port. I will be running a turbosmart boost solenoid so any of the factory boost stuff wont be needed. Now onto what I don't know: 1. What do I do with the coolant / vacuum hardlines that run around the back of the motor?. 2. What do I block off or loop or move or remove?. I will be running the OEM intake manifold. 3. Is there anything in particular I need to buy for the cold side of the rb26?. I already have the intercooler and pipes sorted. If you have any pictures or information it would be appreciated. Thanks....  
    • Murray_Calavera
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • joshuaho96
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
    • GTSBoy
      "Cheap" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Intake manifold is not a part of the issue. The turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. That is easy. But close your eyes and picture the physical situation. That is a T3 flange on the manifold and a T3 flange on the turbo. As long as any new turbo has a T3 flange on the exhaust housing, that exhaust housing will bolt to the exhaust manifold. This places the exhaust housing in the same place as the stock one. But now move your mental attention a little further forward. The location of the compressor housing is set by the length of the turbo's core. The stock turbo had a long core. Let's say that it is..... 100mm long. So that would place the compressor housing 100mm forward of the exhaust housing. But a highflow, might well have a centre core that is shorter. Let's say that it is only 70mm long. Now the compressor housing will be 30mm further back in the engine bay than the stock one. This DOES move the turbo's compressor outlet backwards. It also moves the compressor's inlet backwards. You will very likely have to do some work to both the inlet and outlet piping to make everything connect again. I am not say this to make it out to be a bigger deal than it is. I am just pointing out that "bolt on" is sometimes not quite bolt on. The highflow from GCG that Murray linked above (https://gcg.com.au/turbo-charger-upgrade-skyline-gtst-2iu-xtrgts-s1.html ) uses a core that is the same length as the stock core, and so does not require this extra work. It will look very much like the stock turbo. No-one uses GTR turbos of any flavour (stock, or aftermarket) in a single turbo application on RB20/25. It's not a thing. Yes, people have been putting on GT3076, GTX3076 (and bigger and smaller versions of those) and G30s (of various sizes) onto RB20/25 since forever. But these are not "bolt on". Everything except the 4 bolts to the exhaust manifold change with these. And genuine Garretts are expensive. Non-gen, like Pulsar, etc, are cheaper, variously as good or nearly as good. But still not bolt on. No-one in the right mind would pay for an HKS turbo. Not in this modern day and age. Well, yes, the GCG highflow. You could ask HG what he can do to make the compressor housing sit in the original location. There are surely others doing highflows around the world. And some of the eBay/Temu ones (as reported by Dose) work and don't die. Bit of a lottery though. I would send your turbo to GCG (here in Oz) to be highflowed if you want a trivial no-extra-work option. But seriously, the work required to change inlet and outlet piping is not that hard. That's a boost control problem, not a turbo problem.
×
×
  • Create New...