Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Emanage Ultimate is a fair go up and comer... Apexi Power FC is now too expensive for what it is worth IMO, how do you go from 1000 dollars retail with hand controller to now 1,600 with hand controller, second hand, and missing a few wires or soemshit... just ludicrous.

how do you go from 1000 dollars retail with hand controller to now 1,600 with hand controller, second hand, and missing a few wires or soemshit... just ludicrous.

Because they no make them anymore, Gonna get real hard to find soon! So people can charge what they want until it gets sold! Glad my car came with one when i bought it!

i agree there a cheaper option, but better no way and i find i actually do use my hand controller a lot esp since i put new turbo and rebuild. check things like knock duty cycle water temp things like that i find crucial. and the fact you can adjust you rev limiter when you drop the car off for any reason, has saved my car in the past witnessed with my own two eyes

^^ yeah good point

as for firmware i was thinking in the shower Apexi obviously didnt enable that on there FC because it doesnt need it

i think Trent URAS said there may be a controller coming for the emanage but its unconfirmed

Edited by Madaz

Dan works for Apexi... I agree they are good but they are dead now. they being Apexi is dead unfortunately.

Ultimate has soemthing vital which is Firmware, which means not only can Greddy improve the emanage and add new features, but ppl can create their own firmware which could have limiter cut and shit like that which can be changed via a hand controller, having firmware upgrades the feature list could be only as much as long the hardware allows it, which means anything could be throw into it, hell it could have a scientific calculator thrown into the firmware to work on the upcoming unconfirmed hand controller.

i dont work for apexi.....

ok heres some home truths....

skylines are starting to become old, ppl are talking in the future they can do this that and the other with firmware and the MAYBE hand controller. what company in there right mind is goin to pour X amount of dollars into research and development for an old car no one. I think ppl need to start realising that they own there skylines now not in 3-10 years time. the microtec, wolf and ever so rare powerfcs are prob the best option for NOW. who wants to wait till greddy MIGHT bring out something to mod there car. yes the emanage is a good PIGGY back not a full ecu its certainly a cheaper option but i mean you get what you pay for aswell.

I think its more to do with whatevers the strongest in the aftermarket market. I mean Skylines are still in the top5 most sold cars second hand in australia, and in japan there is that many its not funny. It wont be long till the skyline is more affordable like the r32 for ppl to mod, as prices generally come down, and then the new ECU will support it an niche the market like the pfc did. if apexi is looking to the future and cutting us rb25ers out then that might be a bad move considering how many ppl want the PFC right now...

i think a guy put his kid on ebay for a pfc...

Apparently though, apexi is still in production for people that order them in bulk, Guilt-Toy on the forced induction section has highlighted that ppl on ebay selling them brand new are getting them from somewhere.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...