Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Struggles To Start When Cold

NISZILA
 Share

Recommended Posts

NISZILA Grand Master

NISZILA

Posted
Posted

My R33 struggles to start from cold. In the morning I'll start it and will need to really pump the accelerator before it will take. Every other start after that will be fine, but the next morning it struggles again. I always leave it on ignition only for a few seconds for the whole thing to get ready before I actually start.

From reading just about half the posts on SAU I have found that this is a fairly common problem and there are many possible causes :worship:

I think I have narrowed it down though and need some other opinions

I have a volt meter in my car and when starting it will drop to about 8 volts... from what I understand... this is way too low

If I understand correctly, this is caused by the starter motor arcing due to worn brushes

I was thinking of getting a starter motor from a wreck and swapping them over to test the result

Does this seem like the logical next step? Does anyone have any other opinions on the problem?

My car is a '93 R33 Series I GTS

In summer when the temperature is higher, the car starts fine, but the voltage still goes to around 8 volts.

Thanks... really want this sorted :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172314-engine-struggles-to-start-when-cold/
Share on other sites
Spunky Munky Grand Master

Spunky Munky

Posted
Posted

Check your sparkplugs, running high-octaine fuel? got your car serviced recently?

8 volts is a bit low, on standard I think my car stays on like 12 volts or something. Also, have you checked your battery - enough charge in there - here's an inexpensive thing you could try - bring it to a mechanic, as him to fully charge up your battery for you - would cost around $20.00 or something, then see how you go. I've noticed with my car if I don't drive it enough, sometimes it will die down a bit.

Good luck.

NISZILA Grand Master

NISZILA

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My battery is brand new... found the most powerful one that would fit in the space

I tried putting in new spark plugs, but no change and I always use BP Ultimate 98RON

Didn't know about the oil though... I replaced the oil a few months back, can't remember the viscosity, but it was recomended to me by the mechanic for my car and its k's, so should be ok

Any other ideas? When I start it after its already been started once in the day, the voltage doesn't drop as far. It drops to about 10 volts. Its only the first start on a cold morning that it drops really low and struggles.

Thanks for the input so far guys :thumbsup:

adam-__- Grand Master

adam-__-

Posted
Posted

I'm not too sure mate, I think it depends on how worn out your engine I think. The more worn/old it is, the thicker the oil should be. I don't know much about oils honestly.

Hopefully someone who does know will come and give their recommendations.

WogsRus Veteran

WogsRus

Posted
Posted

well boys i have had this same issue over the past 6 months, and it's a common thing, but belive me there is no sollution that i found.

I had replaced everything in the car, electrical that is, all new sensors, and test and so forht, you name it we tried it, eaven a new set of injectors, no good, then one day it came good, no idea how or why, but has been fine everysince. So bugga.

It's a pain in the ass to find too, seing as you only get one chance a day to diagnose it.

Personaly, i would start by cleaning your AFM. Also test or buy a new Engine temperature sensor, as this oftern plays havoc with the car. also put a new fuel fulter in the car and get the injecotrs cleaned, it may be that one is leaking a bit.

After that it's all trial and error.

I had new AAC valve, CAS, AFM, TP, ECu temp sensor, ECU, COILS, ect ect.

NISZILA Grand Master

NISZILA

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks WogsRus... In my many hours of searching the forum I read heaps of things you had written... I will be trying all these things and hopefully don't struggle as much as you did :)

It may take a while to test each thing, because, as you said, you can only test what you tried once a day... I'll keep this post updated each weekend I try and make progress for all the others with the same problem... hopefully we get it sorted out ;)

If anyone else has any more insight, please let me know

Cheers

adam-__- Grand Master

adam-__-

Posted
Posted
hey adam

i have the same car and the same problem..with mine it clicks over first time but the rev's are very low like its going to die but after a second the rev;s jump up the correct idle...

interested to find out

Any chance you've got a fmic installed? I noticed that I had to blimp my throttle everytime I start the car in the mornings for it to get going after I installed my fmic. Not sure why it happened after the installation of the cooler, but I've had to. A little blimp of the throttle to get the car going isn't a big deal.

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

when you crank a car it's getting pretty close to a short circuit across the battery (you pull a LOT of amps) so the voltage will definitely drop - 10V would be a GOOD figure. 8V is probably normal.

maybe the cold start sensor is buggered or something? I assume there's a coolant temp sensor that's different to the one that runs your gauge....

gt-t_r34 Mentor

gt-t_r34

Posted
Posted

i had the same probly on my r32 i cleaned acc valve ect but havent cleaned the one under the plenium yet... but ive found it struggles on cold mornings like you but lately ive been putting the siliencer in my exhaust in the morning when i start it and let it warm up bcoz my cars very loud.... and its always starts first time no worries with the siliencer in its quite funny... :D good luck who knows what the real problem is behind it but everyones car seems to do it.

evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
Posted

I started my car the other day (r33) and as Idont drive it often it struggles in cold also.

It actually seemed like my coils as it sounded a bit like a rexy, did that for about 3 seconds and then ever again.

Must admit also there was a different smell coming out of the exhaust - bit like a kero smell rather than fuel!

weird.

I try and start it now once a day

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sinn3r
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By sinn3r · Posted

      Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...