Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Sydneykid,

Would a Skyline or any car handle better if the stance of the car was level? most cars seems to be lower at the front,Id like to lower the rear of my car by 1/2 inch to 1 inch by cutting the rear springs cutting 1 coil off each spring only, would that be okay or would i lose too much spring rate?The car has stardard springs at the moment, I am going to upgrade the suspension in the future but right now im spending money in other areas, your advice would be appreciated. Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172857-vehicle-stance/
Share on other sites

hey there your goin to get flamed on here for wanting to cut ur springs.....saying that i have cut springs on previous car which was shit daily....... have to say it worked out alrite the spring rate didnt seem to change much.....in fact it felt better than when i put kings springs in with the stock shocks..... this was on a vn commo..... id recommend u get proper springs/shocks for a skyline....... or reset the stock springs if you want to be cheap........

Edited by rgr34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172857-vehicle-stance/#findComment-3179916
Share on other sites

GTR's handle best around 355 mm front and 345 mm rear (centre of wheel to guard), GTST's around 350 mm front and 340 mm rear. This gives around 10 mm of rake, that's nose down as measured at the sills, just behind the front wheel and just in front of the rear wheel.

As for the reasoning behind that, I don't know how technical you want to go. The principle is to keep the roll couple (RC) somewhere close to standard while lowering the CoG (centre of gravity) and maintaining a reasonable CoR (roll centre). If you lower it too far, the CoR rapidly gets too low, sometimes below ground level. The CoG can't possibly go that low, so you end up with an enlarged RC. Without getting technically too deep, the problem becomes more complex with Skylines, as the front and rear CoR's each individually change dramatically with height, so you end up with disparate RC’s front and rear. This manifest itself as unpredictable understeer and/or oversteer, depending on roll, tyre slip angle plus power and steering input. Nasty things to drive, that bite.

That’s handling covered (in simple terms), ride comfort is another issue. Basically you end up with insufficient travel to soak up bumps and the thing crashes into the bump stops, eventually wearing them out. With no bump stops to protect them, it then smashes the shocks into pulp and the chassis cracking starts to appear.

Pretty simple this lowering stuff isn’t it?

:) cheers :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172857-vehicle-stance/#findComment-3180060
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HELP   Hey all, Is there an accelerator cable from another Nissan that can be used on the R33 GTST RB25DET with a Greddy forward facing plenum?  Thanks in advance  Rob 
    • Or do we think it was installed to give 1 bar of boost max, all day, everyday?
    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
×
×
  • Create New...