Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi i have an r33 turbo that is hard to start when it is cold. I can get it to wind over, but it will not fire unless i hold the throttle open for a good 5 seconds, then it will cough and sneaze with black smoke until it starts and runs. after the car is warm it will start everytime easyily. the car runs perfectly. Has this got something to do with a cold start or something? if so were is it and how can i fix it?

Also when it is running the idle is at a high 1050 rpm. I have tried to lower it buy starting it then, disconnecting the brown acc plug, the winding in the acc idle all the way and reconnection the acc plug. i cant get the idle to run any lower. my ecu doesnt have the idle screw on it like others do. how can i lower it? help me pleaze

thank you

mark

list out your mods, when this began or anything like that so people have some sort of idea

Did it have troubles starting before you wound back the idle screw? 1050 isnt too high, mine is around 1100 warm and around 1500 cold. Also how thick is the oil in your car (eg. 10W40)

Also, black smoke is usually related to fuel so not a huge deal to worry about, probably best to get it checked at a mechanics though

Edited by Baconer
list out your mods, when this began or anything like that so people have some sort of idea

Did it have troubles starting before you wound back the idle screw? 1050 isnt too high, mine is around 1100 warm and around 1500 cold. Also how thick is the oil in your car (eg. 10W40)

Also, black smoke is usually related to fuel so not a huge deal to worry about, probably best to get it checked at a mechanics though

Yes i did have a bit of trouble with starting it before wound it bak but ive put it back to were it was and there is no change.

i Hve GTX 2 in the car.

All the car has that is aftermarket it the exhaust and hks bov.

Is the BOV plumbedback? If not try putting the stock bov back on and see if that changes anything.

Also how thick is the oil, brand doesnt mean much :O

plumback? that like the suck type rite? yer its one of those. i dont have the stock bov with me. i think the oil is 20 w something not quite sure, but wat has oil got to do with it may i add?

Plumback basically means it is 'plumbing' (piping) the pressure build up from the turbo back into the system. The HKS (guessing you have the SSQV) is an atmospheric BOV which is the opposite of plumback, so instead of it keeping the pressure buildup within the system it vents it out making the BOV noise. Atmospheric BOVs cause all sorts of stalling problems and may be part of the cause of your starting problems. Even though they sound pretty dam cool (i always wanted one :O) some people actually say they lower performance because the car has to build up the pressure after each gear change and bov vent. So try changing back to the stock or any other plumback system, can propably even plumback the SSQV so maybe look into that. Should be able to pickup a stock R33 BOV for under $50 on forums, just search around.

As for oil, if it is 20Wsomething then i'd bet some money on it being the cause of the starting problems. Its winter now and the mornings are cold so you add that onto the thick oil and its going to be tough for your car to start and would also explain why the problems disappear when the car is at operating temp. Try changing to some thinner oil (10W40) or even 0W40 and run it in for a while, post back here once you've tested those 2 things out and see how you go. Check out the 'goods on oil' thread for some more info on what oils are good.

i have nearly the same problem... if i take my car on short runs it wont start without pumping the accelerator when tryin to kick it over... i run mobil 1 semi syn 15/40, i have apexi bov on crossover but its not hooked up, i think its on the actulator...

dunno what ever sorts your problem may help me, unless its a different prob

i have nearly the same problem... if i take my car on short runs it wont start without pumping the accelerator when tryin to kick it over... i run mobil 1 semi syn 15/40, i have apexi bov on crossover but its not hooked up, i think its on the actulator...

dunno what ever sorts your problem may help me, unless its a different prob

yer mate im going to do up a diy turorial on the elemination process it took to fix it. it may help u of someone else thanks

ps it was quite easy to fix the air regulator withoout taking it out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...