Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest INASNT

As most of you might know i am doing an upgrade on alot of the components of my car. The only thing i am undecided on is the turbo.

Does any1 know if all the internally gated HKS turbos have the same dump pipe flange eg 2530, 2835 pros s, 3037 pro s or are they all different?

What about the Garret ones are they similiar or all different?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17362-dump-pipe-flange-differences/
Share on other sites

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by robertr

Garrett make a GT40 bolt on with internal waste gate on the AR 1.06 rear wheel one.

I have one

GT40 bolting down in the stock location??

hmm do tell me more, but 1.06 rear A/R must be lag city?

what are the costs involved and what about water and oil lines lining up to stock location?

Guest robertr

Dynamic turbo chargers

Speak to a guy called Steve on (02) 9757 2766

Tell him that Robert from Bar None Motors up in Forster said you would look after him regarding price and service

The flange is T3 which is standard RB25 size

...and let me tell you it looks really horny.

Guest INASNT

i dont think i will be driving all the way to sydney just to get a turbo supplied!

It may be T3 flange but if the housing is 2 big it wont fit properly in thestock location with using a spacer plate!

take some pics of it and what price is he charging u for supply and installation?

Guest robertr

Hi INASNT

Since I do a lot of work with them my price will be different than yours.

However there is a solution. How about you looking around and getting your very best price and then i'll ask him to beat it! Just be honest, as I know how much they are selling for.

This 1.06 AR rear GT40 is will fit the std manifold with a spacer as the compressor cover is only 1/4 inch bigger in diameter than the TO4 that came off the car. Spacer will be approx 12mm.

Specs are:

4" intake

2.5" output

3" exhaust + the wastegate opening (around 2.5")

The spool up will not be as good as the .82AR rear however I wanted the 700 turbo to big me a big hit from 4,500 on up and not run out of puff through the to high rpms.

Pics of turbo off and on car will come soon.

Guest robertr

INASNT: Re lag city.

Just the way I like my turbo charged cars to run. With my mods, it should be biulding 14psi boost by 4500.

I'll let you know more soon but for now the plans to have it ready has blown out to Thursday next week.

The fuel pump was ordered incorrectly and getting another up with take till Wed. BUGGER!

Guest robertr

yeah you are right. I couldn't believe it. Just had to try it out. The wastegate is quite big so it will be fine I believe. Also, we are going to run a screamer pipe so should sounds a hoot.

Oh and BTW, it is much cheaper as you can understand as you don't need any change of manifold or spacer for the external W/G. The wastegate alone is no cheaper than $600 say for a good sized W/G.

That all adds up to a super deal for the lastest "big" Garrett turbo don't you think?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...