Jump to content
SAU Community

K&N rob


Recommended Posts

Be carefull with the high beam bulbs rob.

I know in the R32's they have a some sort of problem where it overheats the stalk switch and some times the light switch on the dash. Causing you to have no lights.

It has happened to mine and it also cooked the silver reflective plastic in the light its self.

Hence that is why one of my lights looks a little buggered.

Apparently it is due to on the R32's at least to much power being drawn through the light switch and stalk, some sort of relay setup needed to be installed?!?!

I was quoted around $200 to fix it, so i slapped normal bulbs in.. :D

R33's maybe different.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1749-kn-rob/#findComment-33134
Share on other sites

Drifty,how many watts r they?

I`m doing a mod with adding 2 relays so both sets of lights are on when you flik to high beam(bright light,bright light).Then i`m fitting a rear spotlight so when Andy gets behind me i can switch it on so he will slow down and i dont have to put up with those bl**dy bright lights through the hills:lol: :lol:

Is your battery a GS Nippon(original battery) if so you might need an upgrade.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1749-kn-rob/#findComment-33139
Share on other sites

Joel:

Yikes $200

They seem to work ok , car also already had the low beam ultra whites in it when I got the car and seem to be ok so far.... fingers crossed.

Andy:

Yep a bluebird, was pretty crazy, it took off , instant sideways, prob is I lauched and just sat there wheelspinning (damn stuffup launch, so i didnt even move, then it popped out of first gear... so went ahh well stuff it... they were little **** heads too, throwing abuse around , in was so tempted to get out of the car and beat the **** out of the loud mouthed passenger.. will prob do it if i see him again actually.

Bugalugs:

The bulbs ae 12V 55W, yep got origional piece of rubbish GS Nippon battery, Tonkins said I should upgrade it too. think i will have to.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1749-kn-rob/#findComment-33175
Share on other sites

Guest veesixtyfour
Originally posted by Bugalugs

Drifty,how many watts r they?

I`m doing a mod with adding 2 relays so both sets of lights are on when you flik to high beam(bright light,bright light).Then i`m fitting a rear spotlight so when Andy gets behind me i can switch it on so he will slow down and i dont have to put up with those bl**dy bright lights through the hills:lol: :lol:  

Is your battery a GS Nippon(original battery) if so you might need an upgrade.

Hey dude an chance of u documenting your install? :D

Sounds like a reallygood idea.. wouldnt mind pinching it if u dont mind of course :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1749-kn-rob/#findComment-33205
Share on other sites

Veeman,

Yeh no probs.I was going to do it today until i started stuffing around with my suspension then washing the car inside and out.

May do it during the week if the weather is good(no carport).

Drifty,

For Australia the K&N would probably be better.Cleaning a filter would be better than having to replace the element.

The watts are the same as standard so they should be alright.

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1749-kn-rob/#findComment-33332
Share on other sites

You can clean it more often that means more air getting through not clogging up like the one you cant clean.

I`m not sure with the K&N but with my Uni-Filter and Finer-Filter(for my buggy) i use Mineral turps to clean it then i let it dry then put the filter oil on.

I think the K&N would trap more finer dust particles than the Apexi.

Hey i saw that sexy looking commodore(JAFFA) cruising down Henley Beach Rd. tonight while i was going home from work.

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1749-kn-rob/#findComment-34299
Share on other sites

Rob,

If you are after a pod air filter than doesn't have to be re-oiled, have you thought about the Trust Airnx Air filter.

It is washable with water and soap.

You can get it both in a pod and pannel.

I think the pod costs around $200 and the pannel cost around the $100 (not sure on the last one).

Autobarn in Adelaide have them.

http://www.yellowpages.com.au/yp/search/bu...requestid=90394

Here is a bit of a write up on them.

http://www.takakaira.com/performance/trust...p3?index=airinx

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1749-kn-rob/#findComment-34315
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...