Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i found a fair bit of stuff lying around in the garage which i don't need anymore so it's up for grabs.

I'm located in Baulkham Hills.

Item 1: OEM R33 RB25 Exhaust cam gear

Reason for sale: replaced with adjustable item

Info: good condition, as removed

Photo: http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/sale/1.jpg

Price: $25

Item 2: OEM R33 RB25 Fuel pump

Reason for sale: replaced with walbro high flow pump

Info: good working condition, wasn't confident in its ability to cope with >200rwkW

Photo: http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/sale/2.jpg

Price: $50

Item 3: Turbosmart Type II adjustable BOV

Reason for sale: car came with it, replaced with stock item

Info: fine working condition, few scratches, flange bolts straight onto factory RB25 BOV mount

Photo: http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/sale/3.jpg

Price: $100

Item 4: SOLD

Item 5: K&N Pod Filter with adapter to suit RB25 AFM

Reason for sale: cheap Apex'i filter came along, couldn't resist

Info: good condition, used for approximately 10,000km

Photo: http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/sale/5.jpg

Price: $50

Item 6: 6x OEM RB25 (Series 1) Coilpacks

Reason for sale: started misfiring, replaced with Splitfire coils

Info: definitely misfiring, could look through and find which ones are/aren't and re-use them or just tape them up

Photo: http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/sale/6.jpg

Price: $100 for the set

Item 7: SOLD

Item 8: Hertz 12" Subwoofer in ported, carpeted box

Reason for sale: amplifier playing up, no interest in replacing it therefore no use for subwoofer

Info: 350W RMS, 700W Peak, works perfect, never run hard

Photo: http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/sale/8.jpg

Price: $100

Item 9: Jaycar 2x150WRMS amplifier (old model)

Reason for sale: playing up

Info: works fine for a while, then starts popping and generating noise through one terminal only, haven't taken it apart completely but board seems fine

Photo: http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/sale/9a.jpg, http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/sale/9b.jpg

Price: $50

Item 10: VDO SSP1711 165mm Dual Cone speakers

Reason for sale: bought for dad, unwanted

Info: 35W RMS, 140W Peak, come with untouched grille, cabling and box, one speaker develops slight buzzing at reasonable volume and low frequency only

Photo: http://members.optusnet.com.au/govich/sale/91.jpg

Price: $50

Prefer pickup for all items, especially the sub. Pickup is available from Baulkham Hills, Repco at either Artarmon or North Parramatta, or UNSW, depending on timing.

Cheers

Edited by govich
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177593-garage-cleanout-syd/
Share on other sites

Do you have a model number the the Sub?

Hertz HS300. Single voice coil, 4ohm, 350W RMS.

I'll take item #7 Breather pipe if it fits on a R34 GTT.

Where u located?

See end of the first post. Baulkham Hills/UNSW/Repco Artarmon or North Parra. PM me with details of when you want to meet, i'm happy for you to come and compare the two pipes.

Edited by govich

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...