Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

About 1 pm yesterday at Sunnybank market square parking space, some F%$#&*ker hit my car and run away :P . Luckily someone saw it and noted his reg. no. and left it on my windscreen. :P

Has reported to police but i'm not sure how soon they will call me back.. or will they call ? :wave:

If anyone see this reg. no "518 JBN" please let me know. Thank You !!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181092-hit-and-run-518-jbn-white-car/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

that sucks man, I was actually there at that time yesterday! having lunch at that jap noodle place sop or something like that, the whole carark was packed aye.

Bloody nightmare to navigate I had some dude revers out almost into me as i was sitting there in a line of traffic he did not look lucky enough i was on my horn quick!

Good luck

hey bud, you can actually get QLD transport to give you the address the car is registered at. as my parents had this happen and they got the rego, and qld tpt gave them the address and name of the person it was registered to

Edited by Spooner
hey bud, you can actually get QLD transport to give you the address the car is registered at. as my parents had this happen and they got the rego, and qld tpt gave them the address and name of the person it was registered to

ok thanks mate :/ .. will go to them if the cops don't get back to me by end of today...

u want some muscle power for when u go to ther house vince..? i really hate these scum that hit and run. learn to drive u fook wits.

was it the rav or R32

Thanks marki.. i got a few baseball bat and samurai.. :cheers: it was my R32..:/

Dan.. don't know what type of car.. but it was a white one..

Did you get the contact details of the guy who gave you the details? He might be useful as a witness if u need to take it further. I was there too last nite and tht carpark sux man..everytime I drive thru there I'm jst paranoid someones gonna back into me. Hope there wasn't much damage, but at least if you can identify who's responsible your insurer will cover you based on a not at fault claim and won't affect ur premium.

Just came back from the police station... and what a suprise... they couldn't even find my report and ask me to come back again on Monday now.... Just wasting our time and tax money :rofl: this is what we get from paying tax every year ??? ;) ..... talking to them my as well talking to my dog at home.. :D

will go to queensland transport tomorrow.. I bet they will say they can't give out details of the car and ask me to go back to the cops again.. :(

Was that y u were at archerfield smash??

yeah.. brendon.. check out the cost for the repair.. ;)

No contact details of the witness..John.. he/she just left a note on my windscreen.. but even i got the witness i think the f&^&^#%ker would have wipe off or repair the scratch on his car by the time the cops wake up from thier dreams.. :D

Thats no good mate, atleast you got the details of the car, the same thing happened to me but noone saw it...

I think it makes no different even i got the details.. nothing has been done by the cops.. :rofl:

sucks about the coppers losing your report, was there any paint off the offending car left on yours?

yeah.. some white paint.. :rofl:

call me vince.. im game for some vigilante action.. im feeling a bit restless lately

will call u when i'm into action.. :(

hey vince .. if u need me feel free to call up .. i got a few baseball bats and a masetti hehe

sorry to hear that about ur 32 .. keep a eye out for that platesif i see it will get the make model and a WORD with the driver.. get some samoan guys onto him lol..

By the way legally u can take the rego details to QLD transport and lodge a complaint also if u have 3rd party insurance lodge a claim with them give the rego number they are faster a week to track down .. and yes cops in sunnybank station are lazy.. try mt gravatt station opp gardencity?? ... sunnybak ones want defective jobs none of the real shit..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...