redevil

Hey guys hoping someone on the coast may be able to help me out just picked up my skyline from the panel shop last night and driving it home the temp guage got up to between the second highest and highest marks so luckily wasnt far from home so took her home and let it cooled down then to find out the panel shop hadnt put coolant in the radiator so this morning bled the system and filled it took it for another run and again getting hot. When I picked it up from the panel shop it was blowing a little bit of steam out the exhaust when first started but just thought that was because it had been sitting for a few days. When I was bleeding it in the garage and it was running didn't seem to be blowing any steam from the exhaust. Just wondering if someone would be able to help me out and check a few things I'm pretty mechanically minded but not really good a checking for stuff. More than happy to shout a few drinks or something for someone to help out. Also if in the case it has cracked the head gasket where do I stand with the panel shop as they replaced the radiator and told me they had filled it up and had been driving it to make sure it was ok. So obivously they had been driving it with no coolant in it as there is no evidential leaks. Also on a side note when the radiator was almost empty the resoviour still had coolant in it would this be a sign of anything???

Oh ok awesome I'll give mine a try then and see if they fit... That would make it so much easier.

Hey guys, got my new front bar but can't work out what indicators go into it. Hoping someone could please help or point me in the right direction cheers http://www.uniqueautosports.com/pricelists/General/Skyline%20parts/kakimotofrontbar.jpg Called unique and they can't even tell me

Hey mate, do you have the brown wiper module that sits behind the passenger side strut tower in the engine bay??

Thanks Chris, I'll go to the wreckers today and grab one and give it a go... Cheers

Hey Guys, Hoping someone can help me out with where to start looking. I have a series 1 R33 and my wipers won't work on Intermittent or when washing the windscreen.. Normal speed and high speed work fine just no other.. Hoping someone can help me I have googled it but can't find any info on this type of problem... cheers guys

Any modification to suspension can cause the alignment to be out, or can cause an already ill adjust alignment to be further out. If you were on the coast my work does alignments for $66.

Hey guys, Chasing a set of 18" rims to suit an R33 9.5" + on the rear and bout 8.5" on the front or there abouts. Car is black so hoping for either white or black rims preferrably with dish. Let me know what you have... cheers

mate whats freight worth to the gold coast?? also what brand are they??

Give you $300

Where abouts does the pipe fit in???

If all you want is a daily driver that you can run a bar of boost through than stock the engine is capable of it. If you feel the engine is worn then don't waste your money on the above list. Some new seals and gaskets, maybe rings and your set. Port and Polish - Waste of time unless your chasing big power and running high boost and in that case what you would want is your engine to be bench flowed to match intake plenum and exhaust manifold. (bare in mind this is not a small job and not a basic mod, it is for as I said big power)

Mate, not being silly but I agree with the above people. It sort of seems like you've googled engine rebuilds and just copied a list. Like I'm not poking fun but you state your not going to use it for any major performance purpose but aregoing down the avenue of cams, cam gears etc.... You list some expensive brands like Tomei when ARP is the tried and tested brand and also cheaper. You have rods, pistons etc... but have made no mention of an upgraded crank. What sort of fuel system are you running?? What sort of computer / tuning controls are you running?? what supporting mods will you be running, (intercooler, exhaust, coils, etc...)???? If you only want it as a daily and not chasing any major figures why waste the money on cams etc.. when all you need is if anything a standard rebuild... As I said I'm not having a go but you list pistons then state your not confident in them. What are you trying to acheive then people will be able to help you with what you need to do.

Hey guys, Looking at buying a set of Ohlins shocks and springs. Just don't know much about the brand I know they do alot of bike stuff. Also I read somewhere that the rears are adjustable but by looking at them can't quite work out how...

I understand what you mean by stock, what I said was that if you were to upgrade the diff for better handling in corners like track work etc... you'd go with a 2-way

Mate Nizzpro are hopeless across the board, went in their told them I was chasing mod parts for my R33 they said what do you want we have everything. So after listing about 8 different things which they had none of I gave up and walked out. But on the coast I'd be taking it to Lex at Russells Automatic Transmission Specialists 5561 7061 He knows alot about these boxes and will be able to help you out.

Yeah but look at the flow rate as in litres per hour Bosch Rating: 200 LPH at 72.5 PSI and 13.5 V Walbro Rating: 255LPH at 40 PSI So as per all flow rate of most pumps higher the pressure lower the flow Edit: Specs based on Bosch 040 and Walbro GSS-432

Walbro's are a fine pump, deliver more fuel than the Bosch's do. If you talk to an EFI shop they will actually tell you the walbro is better suited to an RB25. Hence why cars making bigger power need to run 2 Bosch's to compensate for the downfall in flow. I run Walbro's in all my previous cars and have had cars making over 500hp at the treads with no fuel supply issues. I had one in a car for 3 years and sold the car without an issue. As with any brand it is the luck of the draw. You can go buy a $100,000 mercedes and a $10,000 daewoo and you stand the chance that the daewoo will be more reliable. If you google anything you will find people who have had issues with them.

Not being silly but the add doesn't state the brand.. So how do you know which ones they are??

The stock diff is quite capable, If anything Locking a diff (i.e. welding the internals) can cause weak points in the diff as the welds are never as strong as the components and more often then not under heavy loads the welds often crack. 400rwkw I would stay with the standard diff and say go to a two-way or something if your going to be using it as a track car. If your spending enough money on the car to make 400rwkw it's kind of silly to go the cheap way if you choose to modify the diff.

I understand that the side core is their for that reason, but I just bypassed mine and temperatures were still well within range after allowing the car to warm up for 5minutes at idle. Though if the vehicle doesn't get warmed up correctly then yes running a cold gearbox is an issue. But aftermarket auto ones expecially in alloy are very hard to find in my experience. As stated I have seen side cores crack before note only once on a skyline majority of ones I seen have been on Holden's and Volkswagens (I have worked for both dealerships). I bypassed mine because I am running an alloy radiator.

I work for a car dealership and work very closely with a few performance transmission shops here on the Gold Coast. The MV kit has had very mixed reports with alot of cars having issues after installing the kit. The issue is alot of people buy the kit and think oh yay shift kit lets chuck it in with a new filter and my box is good for 500hp... Not true, the biggest issue and killer to the 'RE' gearboxes is the accumulation factor referred to previously. The accumulation points in effect cause a buffering in the flow of fluid causing the box to have smoother shifts but by doing this it delays the engaging on the gears which therefore has the same effect as if you were riding the clutch in an manual. It cause premature wear on the clutch packs aswell as potential gear wear due to incorrect engagement. The first and biggest thing to do to build a gearbox to be able to handle power is to removed the accumulation points (i.e. as previously described using welsch plugs) after this a slight upgrade in the valve body i.e. drilling slightly larger holes will then take up the slack in the now allowed for flow capacity of the box (MV shift kits are a waste of money and time better going to a competant transmission shop and they should be able to correctly build and modify your box to suit your cars power output and your desired effect, MV's are a generic thing and is like buying a aftermarket computer pretuned and just using it, it will offer some improvement but you are better of having a tune specific to your vehicle) After upgrading the flow if you are talking about running some decent power say for arguements sake 300 + hp ATW then it would be worthwile looking at upgrading the belts to kevlar and dual clutch packs. Also just as a side note it is worthwile on the R33's were they run both a side radiator cooler and an auxilary oil cooler for the transmission. It is worthwile bypassing the radiator cooler and running the oil cooler alone. The amount of times I have seen the side walls of radiators fail causing coolant to go into the transmission, it is definetly worthwile doing especially since some of the radiators are over 17 yrs old. It's better to be safe than sorry. (This will not improve the shift quality, but will help protect your gearbox)

$2000 - $10,000 depending on what you mean by respray and what you intend on getting done.... Bare in mind you will get the twin cannon tax, when people see something that stupid they always add more onto the bill... LOL Mate before you bite back about how your car is better than mine blah blah blah, go get some gramer lessons grow up and take critiscism like a man not a 16yr old in a pissing contest.

What about if your not going to paint it??? Is there a product that will lift it without damaging the plastic??

Well budget currently sits at $5000 by the end of the month then bout $2000 every month their after.