Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people,

I'm about to purchase myself a set of front and rear R33 calipers/discs, and from what I understand the R33 uses a BM50 as opposed to the R32 (current calipers and master cylinder) being a BM44.

So my question is, does the BM50 fit the same as S13/A31/R32 master cylinders, if not is it as simple as borrowing a pair of tube benders? Or would it require custom brakes lines? Or is there an alternative (Z32 brake master?) that will fit with no modification?

Or are people just using the R32 BM44 with their R33 brakes?

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/184081-master-cylinder-for-r33-brakes/
Share on other sites

From what I understand R33GTST requires bending of the brake lines to fit, I don't know how much bending (I can use a pair tube benders if I need to, but I don't want to have to get new custom lines made up)

And I was thinking R32 GTR, but weren't they all equipped with ABS? (Master cylinders only have 2 outlets for ABS)

If 32GTR came out without ABS then I think that would be the brake master to get.

- i used a r32 gtst master cylinder bm44 ...it is exactly the same 3 outlet design all in the same position and is a straight bolt on ...hard to find though all wreckers didnt have one except for pick and payless and it was on a r30 but it was the only r30 that had one. The rest like the r31's use a pbr brand master.

- The r33's use a 2 outlet one (abs) still a bm44 though from memory. Same with s14's (did they all come standard with abs?)

- I think the gtr uses bm 50(r32gtr) or 57(r33gtr) which i think is 2 outlet.

- Nissan pintara FWD U12 uses a bm44, 4 outlet design. It has similar sized brakes to a stock turbo cefiro.

At the moment I'm using a BM44 with the R32 calipers, I guess I'll just have to wait until I have the R33 calipers on then make a decision about whether I need to upgrade.

its should be fine thats what im using for my r33 calipers front and rear.

The BMC in my A31 is a BM50, but it is the 2 port version as it has ABS.

The biggest 3 port BMC in Nissan Australia's database is the BM50 (1"), as found on R32 GT-R N1's.

These are the part numbers:

(5) #46010-05U01 | *RB26DETT.GT-R.17 | Tokico 1" N1 Specification

(6) #46010-05U21 | *RB26DETT.GT-R.17 | Nabco 1" N1 Specification

They retail for around $530 brand new, and you'd be lucky to find a second hand one.

Cash

Ah yes, I found this info the other day but I couldn't remember where. Do you have a link to the page (was something like a writeup about some guy doing the 33GTR brembo caliper conversion on his S13.

As for the $530 brake master, I think it would be cheaper to just fit the corresponding brake master (in this case, the R33 GTST) and then have the brake lines modified to fit. Hell, for the savings made on the BMC, you could probably have completely brand new lines made to fit.

Edited by daisu
Ah yes, I found this info the other day but I couldn't remember where. Do you have a link to the page (was something like a writeup about some guy doing the 33GTR brembo caliper conversion on his S13.

Yes it was. A friend was/is doing a ground up S13 build and has done all research on master cylinders.

Link to the the blog:

Sillbeer

Cash

the reason i went with the bm44 with the 3ports was because r33's use a 2 port BM 44 not bm50 ......so i felt it was fine. I know this cos the car i took the r33 brakes off had the bm44 on it but it was abs and 2 port so i didnt take that and when and found a non abs one instead ...which too awhile to find.

The pedal shouldn't feel softer when going from the R32 GTST to R33 GTST brakes.

It should feel better.

The R32 GTST and R33 GTST callipers are identical in piston dia; so the same amount of fluid is displaced.

The difference is in their mounting position. The R33's are spaced away from the hub more so to allow the use of a larger dia rotor.

The larger dia rotor with the same calliper offers increased leverage when stopping the car; so less brake pedal effort/travel is required to slow the car.

If the pedal feels softer its possible the callipers require an overhaul or you disturbed the master cylinder during bleeding.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...