Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, recently put a stainless intake on my car. It has provision for bov return but not for the oil breather. As i have atmo bov, i dodged up the breather line to connect to this bov return. I done this because with just the little breather filter on top of the motor the car would stall and struggle to idle after given a rev or gear change etc. So yeah i dodged it up, plugged in the little boost line off stock ebc and the problem persists. I even tried blocking off my bov to cancel that out but still happening. It is driving me crazy. Any suggestions would be much appreciated, or if anyones around the area come help me! lol thanks guys.... :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185908-rough-idling-etc-on-r33/
Share on other sites

Come on everyones so quick to bag out others but can't help me? Has to be a simple fix that i just need to be pointed out to me. Really doing my head in as to why i just change intake pipe now it runs like shit.....

seems like your on the right track by looking for vacuum leaks. by "i dodged up the breather line to connect to this bov return" how dodgy do you mean? also have you checked the afm is plugged back in and properly.

hey mate i had a similar problem before i upgraded my turbo. the idle was rougher than it should have been and the car would stall if i took to long to shift gears. when i got the car back there were two problems that it could have been. i needed a new oxygen sensor(could that be your problem?) and my manifold had four broken studs that needed replacing and redrilling. gaskets were replaced also. sorry i cant give you a definite answer id only be guessing, but i hope that helps you out.

Not really dodgy just two bits of hose joined together to connect the two as breather and bov return are different sizes. Yep afm is plugged back in. I just don't understand what happened. Might be sensor but car was fine before i swapped the pipes? I did actually notice a loose washer on the exhaust manifold but doesn't seem to be a problem as must've been like that for a while lol. Bloody frustrating.....Thanks for the replies guys...

Nah not really, idles fine. Only when i give it a decent rev or gear change it drops to like 3-400rpm and stuffs around trying to get back to idle then idles fine again. I'm about to go over my cooler pipes to cancel any leaks there out, maybe i was being to violent when changing pipes and knocked one a bit loose. Really doing my head in over this one....... :nyaanyaa:

Hey all, recently put a stainless intake on my car. It has provision for bov return but not for the oil breather. As i have atmo bov, i dodged up the breather line to connect to this bov return. I done this because with just the little breather filter on top of the motor the car would stall and struggle to idle after given a rev or gear change etc. So yeah i dodged it up, plugged in the little boost line off stock ebc and the problem persists. I even tried blocking off my bov to cancel that out but still happening. It is driving me crazy. Any suggestions would be much appreciated, or if anyones around the area come help me! lol thanks guys.... :thumbsup:

I've highlighted your problem.

Do a f**king search!

AFM cars RUN LIKE SHIT WITH A ATMO BOV

Edited by The Mafia

Mate, are you a f**kin idiot or what? Have a read of my first post you clown. I even took the bov off altogether to no avail. So next time you wanna make a dick of yourself, think first. Any one else with some actual intelligent information? I'm in the process now of re-installing the stock pipe to see what happens.

Well i just put the stock intake back on without ANY hose clamps and its back to normal. Gave it some big revs, goes back to idle normally. What could this pipe be doing to cause the problem??? Anyone in this area wanna come have a look i'd really appreciate it.

I suggest you keep you're little keyboard warrior fingers still next time someone wants some help with their car 'mafia' as you're 'advice' is some just plain f**ken useless.

Hrm yeah i think thats the only option i have really. Though you can't exactly see much with everything in place. Sorry if i came off a bit strong before, i was (and still am) very frustrated with my car and didn't need to read a dumb arse post like that above. I just can't understand why it runs like shit after revs etc, and also the 'flutter' is alot quiter for some strange reason? Boost remains the same but the flutter is less. It has to be coming out somewhere else besides the filter but i can't work it out. Thanks again guys...

Have you looked at the basics yet like plugs, clean air filter and fuel filter etc. Set the idle according to one of the threads on the forums somewhere to the correct rpm and making sure the base timing is set right. If that is all in order and the AAC is clean and your O2 Sensor is ok then other things left are things like leaks on the inlet and exhaust side. Exhaust gasket leaks are pretty comon on R33's as the turbo and manifold aren't supported and most cars have a dead manifold bolt or two (or more). These would affect the idle as well.

I know you've probably thought of most of this I'm just thinking out loud.

Hrm well i do have one dud bolt at the back on exhaust manifold, but why does just changing intake cause this proboem to raise its ugly little head? Car runs like normal now with stock pipe back on. I want the nice looks and louder noise but can't sort this shit out! lol I noticed mucking around with the oil breather pipe made a difference but i sealed it up tight back into the intake and still ran like shit. It's such a head f**k, something so simple thats had me going for 2 days now.

It is hard to fully understand what hoses you have going where from the descriptions given. If you show how you've hooked things up via photos or pics then someone may notice something that you will miss after looking at it for some time. A fresh set of eyes so to speak.

It must be to do with the re-routing of the hoses etc as you say this is all that has changed. I just had a thought, is your standard inlet pipe fully intact, ie no leaks etc? Maybe there has been a compensation to help it to idle and when an intact inlet is placed a problem arises. Weird I know, just putting it out there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...