Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

Last week the power steering on my car decided to stop working, steering became quite heavy, so I went ahead and checked the usual suspects.....

- speedo is working

- belts are fine

- fluid is fine

So I thought "the pump", went to my local wreckers and got myself a new pump, installed that and to my surprise it didnt fix the problem, went back to the wreckers to ask for another pump, got that, went back home installed it.....nothing AGAIN :) .

So now Im thinking what are the chances that both these pumps were dead? I believe the problem may just be somewhere else, but dont know where to start looking now.

So if you guys can give me any ideas, that would be sweet, this is doing my head in :)

Cheers

Ric

Edited by Richo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187267-power-steering/
Share on other sites

Try searching under hicas problems, but if that fails here's my suggestion for the pump itself.

open up the pump and check the magnets inside, if you see any sign of wear inside the pump, then there is contamination somewhere in the entire power steering pump system. By changing pumps only you're actually causing the shavings to cycle through each pump you put on the car.

You could have shavings, cycling from the steering rack, through to the pump. Whilst you are there, your pump may have some type of pressure switch setup, and it may not be working properly. From what I remember when i checked mine on an R33 and R34 pump, there was a spring and ball bearing type setup that you can get to, to see if that area is releasing freely.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187267-power-steering/#findComment-3381289
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, ill have a look at the PRV (if I can find the thing) :( and the fuses and see how i go

FYI.. I looked under the car and the right hand side steering rack boot was completely destroyed, I had noticed that it was split a few months back, but now its totally open and perhaps letting alot of crap in to the system. Any way of flushing and cleaning the PS system , or is it a matter of getting a whole new rack???

Cheers

Ric

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187267-power-steering/#findComment-3382751
Share on other sites

I found a blown fuse on the dash board, at least we are getting somewhere here. :(

Now does anybody know what this fuse controls? I just dont have access to a new fuse now, being public holiday and all.

Cross fingers thats the answer though.

post-18416-1191212005_thumb.jpg

Cheers

Ric

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187267-power-steering/#findComment-3382931
Share on other sites

I found a blown fuse on the dash board, at least we are getting somewhere here. :(

Now does anybody know what this fuse controls? I just dont have access to a new fuse now, being public holiday and all.

Cross fingers thats the answer though.

post-18416-1191212005_thumb.jpg

Cheers

Ric

From memory it was a 15 or 20A fuse that blew in my bro-in-laws car. Looks very familiar. I noticed you have a 10A and 20A in the spare fuse holders. You may be able to try a 10A if it is a 15A that blew. At least to get you going until you get the correct one.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187267-power-steering/#findComment-3382970
Share on other sites

edit:

Ben mate, you were right on the money, the blown fuse on the loction shown on the pics is a 10A....now Im not sure whether this fuse is purely for the PS but I put on one of the spare 10A's on there and voila!! PS is sweet now!

Hope this helps any one in the future, check your fuses and go from there.

Thanks again Ben, and to the others for the suggestions :D

Ric

Edited by Richo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187267-power-steering/#findComment-3383256
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...