Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have now owned my nissan for nearly a year. It has come up with this hicas problem many times. I had it looked at, they put in a hi powered....can't remember what they put in now...anyway it seemed to have fixed the problem, to the point where I took the car on a trip from Brisbane to Wagga Wagga NSW. Went great, I didn't expereince any problems. I have read many of the other problems that people have with HICAS and that isnt what I am experencing with mine. When the HICAS light comes on in my car the whole system shuts down. Radio shuts off, steering seems to lock (felt mostly if you are turning a corner when the light flashes on) and I can hear clicking when this happens. I have traced the clicking noise to a relay box that is in the boot right next to the rear left hand lights. The problem I am facing now is that it has gotten that bad that the whole car shut down, wont start (not even turn over) I also have a kill switch in my car, it gives you 15 secs from the time that you press the key pad to start the car, it also locks my car, now this plays up also, at times locking me in my car.

I Have come to love and hate my car, it is a Nissan skyline 4 door automatic, turbo GTS-4. It has all the standard features, power steering, power windows air con, all wheel drive.

I can't say that my problem with the HICAS light is the same as what I have read as my car is behaving differently. I have printed out a self diognosis and ran the test, no response from my car.

Any ideas before I take it back to my mechanic would be much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187845-hicas/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Sounds like it aint your hicas, but your alarm system playing up and the light is coming up as a result of the power down/engine kill. If its an R33 then thats why your hearing the clicking sound in the boot (alarm relays)

It could also be just a coincidence as a result of something else or poor wiring into the hicas system

if u have an a/market steering wheel without a hicas boss then the light will show up

if u have a r32, i think its this light that also incidcates low hydralic fluid (for hicas)

try the diagnostic when you know theres no problem to try and narrow it down

HICAS Diagnostics

What is HICAS? And do I have it?

Good question. HICAS is Nissan’s version of four wheel steering. It is an acronym for High Capacity Actively Controlled Suspension. Unlike other Japanese car manufacturers 4WS (eg Honda’s system) HICAS never exceeds +/- 1°. It is designed for high speed response rather than parking manoeuvres.

The system is electro-hydraulic - the ECU in the boot directs a hydraulic actuator at the rear axle to steer the rear wheels using the rearmost suspension links. The result is usually no more than 0.4° of movement. HICAS gives a touch of counter steer before settling with the rear wheel pointing the same way as the front. (Maybe this explains why my Skyline feels so loose on high-speed gravel...) This results in sharp turn-in, and enhanced stability at medium to high speeds.

Anyway, have a crawl under the rear of your Skyline and have a look. After following the description in the paragraph above and if it looks like the picture below, you have HICAS. NB: The R33 series has an electronic actuator, it looks slightly different.

Procedure:

Switch ingition off, transmission in neutral or auto in Park.

Start engine

Very quickly (with a couple of seconds), turn the steering wheel left and right about 20 degrees from centre five times, and then pump the brakes five times, then press the brake pedal once more - this will enter diagnostic mode.

Drive forwards or backwards about 5 metres at a speed less than 10k/ph, this will enter full diagnostic mode.

The HICAS light in the instrument cluster will be flashing quickly (for normal) or will flash a code indicating any problems. Long flash = first digit, short flash = second digit. Diagnostics will return to normal after five minutes, or any speed over 10k/ph, or ingnition is turned off.

HICAS 1990-1993 (seems OK for '89 as well)

1 HICAS solenoid right hand

2 HICAS solenoid left hand

3 Cut off valve

4 Power steering solinoid

5 Vehicle speed sensor

6 Steering angle sensor

7 Neutral position sensor

8 (Auto) Parking brake sensor, (Manual) Clutch sensor

9 (Auto) Inhibitor switch, (Manual) Neutral sensor

HICAS 1994-1999

11 HICAS control unit

12 HICAS motor power supply not present

13 HICAS motor output not present

21 Vehicle speed sensor not present

22 Steering angle sensor not present

23 Steering angle sensor neutral or not present

24 Rear main sensor input not present

25 Rear sub sensor input not present

31 Parking brake sensor input not present

32 (Auto) Inhibititor switch input not present

(Manual) Neutral switch input not present

32 Engine speed signal not present

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Edited by Jmaac
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187845-hicas/#findComment-3417196
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replys. Yep it isn't my hicas, but also think my gas is empty in the solinoid (or getting there), will regas at a later date (next service) it was actually a power drain (of course i had asked if maybe the car needed a new battery, but was told no) so what did they do this time...yep put in a new battery, and also soldered down a few points that were loose and changed one of the connectors to the battery as it was too small and kept coming off. So far I have had my car back since monday and has been running fine. Kill switch is working but still unable to unlock my car, I can unlock all other doors with pad but not drivers so its back off to the people who installed it. Everything in my car is original. I have the original steering wheel, which I will not change. I am trying to keep my car in its original state as much as possible.

If a new battery was all it needed then all is good, probably a regas. It does take time and effort to track down what goes on with these cars and hopefully the info I have just given has helped others. Its basically a process of elimination.

Now what I also wanted to know is, is there any Skyline groups that hold meetings or get togethers? I live in the Camira, Ipswich area. To actually talk to other nissan owners would be good and maybe get some hands on experince with the ins and outs of these cars.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187845-hicas/#findComment-3421880
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...