Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wouldnt think there would be a direct performance gain. The main reason you use it is so you dont get oil shitting up your intake/intercooler. Also the oil can contribute detonation on cars with alot of blowby, but i wouldnt go advancing the timing or anything like that after I installed a OAS.

Correction to all.

An oil/air separator simply allows your engine crankcase to "breathe" and separate oil from air before returning it to the intake.

With the parts moving inside the engine (pistons up and down) there can be a marginal amount of air displacement.

This air has to come and go from somewhere.... in standard form, there is a provision made, but can feed oily air back in to the intake.

By fitting an oil/air separator, it allows the oil to be removed from the air before returning back to the intake.

It also reduces crankcase compression that is caused by the displacement of air and blowby caused by worn pistons/rings

The oil/air separator doesn't allow the crankcase to "breathe", it's the holes in the cam covers which do that. Whether you have them feed straight back into the intake or plenum or through a catch can or separator or even just a breather filter is irrelevant, in all cases it still "breathes".

Busky2k's description sums up the oil/air separator's function perfectly, there is no need for a "correction".

Originally posted by Busky2k

I wouldnt think there would be a direct performance gain. The main reason you use it is so you dont get oil shitting up your intake/intercooler. Also the oil can contribute detonation on cars with alot of blowby, but i wouldnt go advancing the timing or anything like that after I installed a OAS.

Busky2k is sorta right, the reason for installing a oil air seperator especially on race or high boost application cars is cause the oil that ends up being recycled back into the engine goes down and gets burnt with the gas, with it mixing with your gas it lowers the octain rating which causes detonation. so by installing 1 of these you will lessen the chance of detonation and run safer higher boost levels especially if you do hav blow by problems. So the only performance gains i could see would be very minimal.

instead of having the cam cover hose going to the plenum make it go to the oil catch can and on the other cam cover the one going to the intake just make that go to the oil catch can as well.. theres that way or.. leave the one in the plenum and make the intake hose go to the catch can instead.. if ya know what i mean??

I personaly dont see the point in havinin a oil air seperator if your only goint to run 1 of your hoses from your valve covers to the catch can, but yes VLRB20DET you just disconnect them from the plenum and the intake ducting and run them to your catch can, dont forget to plug the hole up that you've disconnected. Because on most R32 series valves covers the the connections are pointing in two different directions you could take them out and use the connections from a RB20DE which are just right angled connection and dont have the connector piece going between them you can point them in any direction you want, eg: to you catch can where ever you decide to put it.

Hope that helped

Soon as i get sum pictures from my camera to the comp i'll show you how i have mine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...