Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Sorry if this is in the wrong spot.

Just want to know if anyone knows if crow cam's are any good (or bad)

I was going to get some for my SR20det.

But if anyone has some either in their skyline or other import, i am keen to hear of their experiences.

Cheers, Warwick.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191664-crow-cams-any-good/
Share on other sites

Where I used to work, we sold a huge amount of crow gear, and I never heard a bad word about their product. If you're happy with the grind and lift that the cams offer you, then there's absolutely no reason not not to use them. At the end of the day, it's 'just' a camshaft, and a tomei cam next to a crow cam with the same grind, will do the same job, and very likely a fair bit cheaper. Be careful of getting caught up in brand-naming :) The hot jap cars use the hot jap brands, but they're a whole lot cheaper over there...if there's a quality local product cheaper than the jap product, it's the way to go ;) Unless you want the sticker for your door...

RM.

Hey all,

Sorry if this is in the wrong spot.

Just want to know if anyone knows if crow cam's are any good (or bad)

I was going to get some for my SR20det.

But if anyone has some either in their skyline or other import, i am keen to hear of their experiences.

Cheers, Warwick.

line up the crow cam sticker with the holley/B&M/Rocket/Pissing on ford ones and she'll be apples!

but in all seriousness if they were a bunch cheaper why not? if there were the same price i would probably get the tomei (but ima sticker queen)

Not in imports, so far i have had very little sucess... the tolerances (base circles etc) have been way out even after trying 2 freshly ground sets... dropped in a set of hks with no dramas... for V8 no dramas but for the latter model stuff not a chance in hell i will ever use them again.

Warwick i am happy to explain just how bad they are in SR's via pm.

I can't even see anything on their website anyway.

BUT Tighe cams appear to be good. :D

yeah Ivans cams seem to be good but i have only ever used them in V8's.... so i cant comment in SR

his cam my specs made my old broom go 12.2 with a 253 back in '99 in full street trim :) (haha 12.2 was quick back then.... bit slow nowadays)

post-34927-1193894758_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1193894772_thumb.jpg

save yourself the hassle and stick with a set of jap cams. tomei, hks etc that have specs to meet your requirements.

i'm not going to go into details about local companies, but for said engine, i'm just telling you so you can avoid potential headaches. is the local stuff any cheaper anyway?

the guys at nissansilvia would have direct experiences with cams for SR series engines, maybe pay them a visit, they aren't all knobs, some are ok...

URAS,

A mate of mine has a set of GTR reground cams from Ivan. Inlet 254 8.5mm lift 112 centreline; Exh. 254 8.5mm lift 117 centreline.

Picked up 26rwkw on 1psi less with the std centrelines. inlet was 112 and exhaust 117.

Didn't loose any down low, started to pick up power from mid range onwards and all though probably tune related its picked up fuel economy.

From memory the cams were $220 for the pair to regrind. He said he can also offer the 265's 8.9mm lift but I'm a tinny bit concerned about reducing the base circle to obtain those numbers. Soon to give him a buzz and see what he thinks about my concerns.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...