Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, the standard inlet manifold, plenum and throttle body are good for 450 bhp with much more even distribution than any aftermarket plenums I have tested.

For your $2K, 25GTT I would get the standard turbo ball bearing hi flowed. No fabrication required, and you should be able to do the swap over yourself with a limited amount of skill and tools.

I reckon that's a better result for your money.

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

changing the plenum does not increase hp, thats what i thought anyways?

it's more over a increase in response from the engine, to shorten intercooler piping and to move the air easier and quicker then the space provided in the stock plenum!

adrain:p

Adrian_perth, that was my understanding too. However with my old FMIC, the plumbing was absolutely atrocious. The whole lot needed to be re-done because of right-angle bends, and the intercooler itself replaced because it was too small.

I thought I could either run a new set of pipes up and along the top of the engine, or spend a little extra and get a front-facing plenum with less pipework. Doing the latter saved me a bit of dough on 2 extra pipe bends and maybe a metre of straight pipes, so the plenum cost was slightly compensated by needing less pipework.

The front-facing plenum definitely gives me better throttle response, and also seems to bring boost on a little earlier. It can also compensate for lag created by a too-big intercooler because it reduces the volume of air in your intake tract.

A throttle body wider than the rest of your intake would only let more air in at WOT. A smaller throttle body can do the exact same job at less than WOT, just with the butterfly valve open slightly more. At WOT, if the rest of the intake is narrower you'll still be limited by the flow of the rest of the intake.

On forced induction cars throttle bodies are less important than on NA cars. The plenum chamber itself holds a supply of pressurised air for the engine and the turbo/supercharger keeps it under pressure when engaged, whereas in an NA car the engine itself has to suck all the air through a small throttle body. ie it has to do all the work on the fly as opposed to having a ready supply of air right next to the inlets on the manifold.

Putting a bigger turbo on but keeping the same throttle body on your car will do lots more for power than keeping the same turbo but putting a bigger TB on.

There is a point whereby a bigger TB will help your power, but I suspect it's somewhere over 450hp. Sydneykid has said above that the standard intake is good for 450hp and I believe him :D

I was wondering that "heated gas flows faster" may apply as well, the compressed air cooler after flow through the intercooler, it will "slower" and less acceleration, so if put on a big throttle body, it might have less acceleration, unless running more boost, just a though..please correct me if wrong..

BTW, JimX whia is "WOT", thanks

They used to have a website but I think it's been down for a few months now. They are really hard to track down if you don't know who to ask about them because they aren't in the White or Yellow pages and now that their website is down (or changed domain names without me knowing how to find it) it's even harder. Give them a call and ask them about it. If you want to see what their plenum looks like, try to find a photo of B-Man's engine bay, because he has one fitted. IMO they are very sexy!

I am currently doing the rb30/25 conversion, and will be getting a custom plenum made up with twin rb25 throttle bodies. The reason we chose the twin setup is because 2x 60 mm throttle bodies equals more than most large aftermarket TB. we can then stage them, so that it reduces lag. slightly!

the only problem i can see is a slight restriction

Originally posted by Ryno

Thanks mate, I'm wondering how one would go on a non-turbo RB30 conversion

Oh, if it's non-turbo then the bigger TB is definitely worthwhile. And also, the front-facing plenums will be a waste of time and money! You will either need to make a new air box for it on the opposite corner of the engine bay (very time consuming and tedious) or keep the same over-the-engine setup to keep the intake as short as possible.

The only reason for the front-facing plenum is to cater for front-mount intercoolers. Even if you had a turbo Skyline with the stock cooler it would be a waste of time.

Hills plenum uses the stock runners, and just plants a new chamber on the top to facilitate a forward facing TB. The intake runners are radiused, but not bellmouthed.

The acutal plenum sits quite high at the front and only just clears the bonnet - this is with stock RB25. If anything I believe it would have less underbonnet clearance than the stock plenum.

I got one of these believing it would sit a bit lower than it does, unfortunately, by the looks, I would think it would not clear the bonnet with another 3cm height:(

Get a jun or greddy plenum, or get a decent belmouthed plenum made that allows for extra deck height - wish I did.

Anyone want to buy a hills plenum?:D

Oh goody another plenum thread !

Yeah, link sometimes goes down due to dodgy webserver....

DSCF0044.JPG

DSCF0036.JPG

DSCF0042.JPG

I will be getting my Hills Plenum flow tested soon (hopefully) - It looks good - but I'm not sure about the benefit.

Steve, you got one did you ? PM me your findings.

Spend the extra and get a GReddy one - or just for get it if you are aiming for under 450HP.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...