Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My intercooler has been previously painted black, and i want it looking chrome or silver,

so is it possible to strip the paint off? or will that damage it? any ideas would be aprreciated..

others is it worth getting an aftermarket one?

Cheers,

Corey

common sense, just check that the paint stripper you use wont damage the material the intercooler is made from.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194678-simple-question/#findComment-3489874
Share on other sites

common sense, just check that the paint stripper you use wont damage the material the intercooler is made from.

Or you could take it to an engine reconditioning shop and have it put in a caustic bath. That will also clean the insides out as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194678-simple-question/#findComment-3490950
Share on other sites

"Or you could take it to an engine reconditioning shop and have it put in a caustic bath. That will also clean the insides out as well."

any idea on how much that would cost?

It shouldn't be any more than $50. And it would only take a couple of hours.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194678-simple-question/#findComment-3493676
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
    • Did you pick up a manual cluster to remove the position indicator?  (Pretty sure the 34 has the gear position in the cluster, but it's been a while)
    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
×
×
  • Create New...