Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Actually all you need to do is shock the steering coloumn. Take a bar of soft metal (aluminium), and a hammer, just give it a medium knock on the head, and that should loosen ur steering wheel, worked for me everytime.

Edited by KeeFy
  • 3 weeks later...

Ok so i bought one of the HKB boss kits from malz but it didnt come with the star tool to take off my stock steering wheel which leaves me stuck before i have even started.

so does anyone have one of the star tools that i can borrow?

i have this nice leather nismo wheel and its just sitting around in my room :(

alright so its a funny story but my aim was to get my old steering wheel off and get my new one on.

and i acieved just that.

so i needed these torx screws out, but they were bigger than any of the ones i had, PLUS they were security screws so they had the piece of metal in the centre of them. So first of all i got my drill and drilled out the center of the torx screw so i could try use a big screwdriver. Needless to say this didnt work but it was worth a try.

so then i decided to try and go through the front of the steering wheel by removing all the plastic coverings, so i could use multigrips to undo the torx screws from the side.

well i managed to get the torx screws out using the multigrips but the difficult part was removing the plastic cover from the front of the wheel.

now, i have nfi how the hell the front of the steering wheel comes off when the airbag wants to come out because i had to drill out 9 rivits and cut a few sections of plastic in order to reveal the airbag.

so i was now at the point of no return as i had esentially just used a drill to remove what wasnt meant to be removed.

nevermind the nismo wheel is better..

so i then had to get the air bag out of the way (which is pink by the way?? i always thought they were white)

now airbags are mighty tough as i descovered and had to resort to a pair of tin snips to get rid of it.

so i finally got it off and i was surprised that i was able to pull it of the steering column by just giving it a few hard knocks either side.

Then i managed to put the boss kit and steering wheel on with no problems. Apart from the fact i didnt put it on straight the first time as my wheels werent perfectly straight when i parked the car..

word of advice: DONT do what i did! be patient and either borrow or go buy a torx key as you will save A LOT of time and you will be able to use the airbag in the future if you feel the need.

:P:)

:P

Thats hilarious. Can't believe you went through all that. If I knew thats what you were going to do, I would have offered to come to your place, bring the key, and do it for you.

Oh well, at least you've got it one know lol

  • 1 month later...

lol...

Still haven't put my wheel on... I've only really been full time in Perth now for about 3 or so weeks...

I need to ask a n00bish question... Star key and allen key aren't the same thing are they???

intheglass, you're lucky that thing didn't go off in your face.. you will probably find the pink colour is due to a coating that will protect the airbag whent he explosive goes off..

You shouldn't fk with airbags people..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...